To bolt or not to bolt: That is the question
I still believe there is room for both hyper safe routes and routes that may be a bit spicy, even in the Gorge. I have no problem with either, but I'm really glad there are both. Homogenization makes us weaker.
How many times do you remember and tell stories about the safest ascents you've managed? Those aren't the special ones for me.
One of these days we may go to some far away place where most of the routes may not be as comfortably equipped as we're used to, and that's fine.
That said, it's nobody's call but the FA and the land owner.
How many times do you remember and tell stories about the safest ascents you've managed? Those aren't the special ones for me.
One of these days we may go to some far away place where most of the routes may not be as comfortably equipped as we're used to, and that's fine.
That said, it's nobody's call but the FA and the land owner.
At what point does safety and responsibility play into the equation for a developer or ascentionist?
Granted, we should all know the risks, but...
Like Jeff, I have a good idea what route this is and I think there are bolted anchors. Doesn't this already take away from the 'purest style' and invite climbers to partake, like a moth to a flame. I believe the litigationist's might term the anchors 'an attractive nuisance.' Should the anchors be pulled or the grade simply given an R or X?
Tis nobler to have climbed and decked than to have never climbed at all?
(I just like throwing it out there.)
Granted, we should all know the risks, but...
Like Jeff, I have a good idea what route this is and I think there are bolted anchors. Doesn't this already take away from the 'purest style' and invite climbers to partake, like a moth to a flame. I believe the litigationist's might term the anchors 'an attractive nuisance.' Should the anchors be pulled or the grade simply given an R or X?
Tis nobler to have climbed and decked than to have never climbed at all?
(I just like throwing it out there.)
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
Coming from somebody who has already bolted Roadside Attraction, and free soloed Hidden Dragon naked, I say bolt it on rappel. Make sure there is enough space to z clip at all the cruxes, and leave like five holes unfilled while attempting to decide where to place the "just out of reach" anchors. I also think you should fix nuts in the crack- a sacrifice to pay to the rock gods. That way if I'm thinking I want to sport it up, I can, and if I want to "trad it up" well, the gear's already there-BOO YA! 8)
Comfort is a mindset.
I can think of a couple that I have done that were pretty cool - Central scrutinizer, runnin down a dream and the mantel route, though the mantel route *could* be a full on sport route, but is fun as is.
The problem is every one gets so fixed on vertical cracks, but I bet probably most rrg sport routes could be safely protected by gear for at least part of the route, so you could have all kinds of mixed routes with pockets for pro. But, people only freak about bolts next to vert cracks, not slammer pockets. Thus, if it only needs a piece or two or three of trad gear on an otherwise nice sport route, just add the bolts.
There are some hard, scary, headpointing FA possibilities out there for the uber bold purists, so you all should just get out and find them and do the FA in your style, rather then bagging on someone else's. Just sayin'
The problem is every one gets so fixed on vertical cracks, but I bet probably most rrg sport routes could be safely protected by gear for at least part of the route, so you could have all kinds of mixed routes with pockets for pro. But, people only freak about bolts next to vert cracks, not slammer pockets. Thus, if it only needs a piece or two or three of trad gear on an otherwise nice sport route, just add the bolts.
There are some hard, scary, headpointing FA possibilities out there for the uber bold purists, so you all should just get out and find them and do the FA in your style, rather then bagging on someone else's. Just sayin'
JR wrote:Mixed routes are dumb.Wes wrote:Mixed routes are dumb, 99.99% of the time. Only time the make sense is when the route is 90% gear and just needs a bolt or two to protect a blank spot. Bolt the world!
Did a search on mixed climbs. Lets take a look at some of the more popular mixed routes.
*Red Hot Chili Pepper 10d FRC It's a sport route. Needs one more bolt.
*Face up to that Crack 8- LF. It's a sport route. No real need for the bolt. Crack is high enough up. Cam optional.
*Central Scrutinizer 5.9 FRC. One bolt low to get you to the gear face climb. Not a sport climb.
You are right Wes. The only time it makes sense to have a mixed route is when it is 90% gear and just needs a one bolt to protect a blank spot.
If the routes are on average below 90 feet. One bolt at most. Boom. New rule.
Unless you don't like the rule then do what ever you want with the drill. I will try to climb it either way.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda