Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 4:06 am
No, but I think Im going to have to the next time if I want to redpoint that thing. My endurance sucks right now. I was thinking of trying "kool aid" Have you done it, or heard anything about it?
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My longest fall to date!
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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 5:02 am
Yea man, I tried Kool Aid a long time ago. From what I remember it is off-fingers and balancey for the first 3/4 then you have to do this crazy bouldery move out left with a heel-hook to finish. It's cool as hell!
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 11:05 pm
Right on. I'll have to try that next.
Power2U's big Fall in Redrocks
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 2:05 pm
Ahem... *SINCE I was accused of auditing the other day...*
I was the belayer on John's Big fall (Power2U) in 1995 and I can vouch that the story is largely true, but grew a little. It was a 70-footer, with quite a swing! Fot those unaware, this pitch rises up and right at a 60 degree angle over the lip of the roof, which he cleared.
THe prussik thing- Hey John, remember argueing over who got the lead and me joking with you, snapping a jumar to the gearloop on your butt with the tag line and saying "your going to need this then."
John Jumared to eye-level with me and I reeled him in on the tag line. That's what I remember. The funny part was even with a broken wrist (which we found out later) he said "I'll still follow it if you lead." That's balls.
-Tony Bubb
I was the belayer on John's Big fall (Power2U) in 1995 and I can vouch that the story is largely true, but grew a little. It was a 70-footer, with quite a swing! Fot those unaware, this pitch rises up and right at a 60 degree angle over the lip of the roof, which he cleared.
THe prussik thing- Hey John, remember argueing over who got the lead and me joking with you, snapping a jumar to the gearloop on your butt with the tag line and saying "your going to need this then."
John Jumared to eye-level with me and I reeled him in on the tag line. That's what I remember. The funny part was even with a broken wrist (which we found out later) he said "I'll still follow it if you lead." That's balls.
-Tony Bubb
My Own best falls at RRG.
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 2:15 pm
Uh... Well, the route Crater I comes to mind, a new route I did at Long Wall in 1990. To find it, find a 6'*5'*2' boulder lying by the forest road in the ditch just after the normal long wall pullout- follow a swath ob broken trees to a crater in the ground, and possible what still remains of the adjascent "print" of my heals, butt, and shoulders. Look up the wall 40' to a sloping ledge with an "inset" area about 6'*5'. CLimb up to that. From there the rout climbs up broken OW. THis is near Ralph and Bob's.
PS- this route took 2 tries... (Tony Bubb, Hans Barsun, Fall 1990)
Next big one was in 1992 on BeeneStalker. I was at the top with my arm propped across the ledge, arranging my reversed/opposed ovals on the slings so I could lower off prior to Mike Heffner following. When I pulled up slack to clip, the foothold I was on gave under the weight- Off I went, popping a peice and stopping level with the initial roof. I swung in and bashed the rock with my chest. It was so cold and wet that day that I didn't notice the blood until after climbing. I took off my outter long sleave shirt- we had to soak my T-shirt at the rest stop to "unglue" it from my chest due to the blood that crusted it on.
PS- this route took 2 tries... (Tony Bubb, Hans Barsun, Fall 1990)
Next big one was in 1992 on BeeneStalker. I was at the top with my arm propped across the ledge, arranging my reversed/opposed ovals on the slings so I could lower off prior to Mike Heffner following. When I pulled up slack to clip, the foothold I was on gave under the weight- Off I went, popping a peice and stopping level with the initial roof. I swung in and bashed the rock with my chest. It was so cold and wet that day that I didn't notice the blood until after climbing. I took off my outter long sleave shirt- we had to soak my T-shirt at the rest stop to "unglue" it from my chest due to the blood that crusted it on.
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 2:24 pm
You guys are so cool!! 8)
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2003 11:54 pm
Not my longest fall, but certainly the most painful. A few years ago when I was just getting into leading sport I was on my first 5.9 sport lead at the Long Wall at Summersville Lake New River Gorge. 4 bolts up and heading for the anchors my arms pumped out, and I yelled, "FALLING!!!" My belayer interpreted that as take up all the slack possible so the rope went from a dynamic to a static rope instaneously. I only took a 6 ft fall, however it bent my spine all the way back where my head almost touched my heels. I knew something was seriously wrong, so I came down and laid by the lake for a few hours.
A few days later I thought everything was back to normal so I went out skateboarding at NCSU. Attempting to kickflip down some stairs I landed and immediately my body went down to the ground. I had to be carried to the hospital, because the combination of my leader fall, and the impact of coming over the stairs slipped 4 of my discs in my back.
I ended up having to lay on the couch for a month. Luckily I came back to finish the route the next Spring. But now I'm very wary of who belays me, and how loose I like my belays. I'd rather take a longer fall to avoid another back injury.
A few days later I thought everything was back to normal so I went out skateboarding at NCSU. Attempting to kickflip down some stairs I landed and immediately my body went down to the ground. I had to be carried to the hospital, because the combination of my leader fall, and the impact of coming over the stairs slipped 4 of my discs in my back.
I ended up having to lay on the couch for a month. Luckily I came back to finish the route the next Spring. But now I'm very wary of who belays me, and how loose I like my belays. I'd rather take a longer fall to avoid another back injury.