Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 11:13 am
Some of the things I've seen from "brand name" manufacturers over the years.
SLCs that could too easily lose their cams off the ends of the axels.
Force limiting draws that caused caribiner failure.
Locking carabiners that would become locked in a gate open position after having been carefully locked shut.
Carabiners prone to cross-loading and ripping the sheath of the rope.
Disasterously incorrect buckle lacing instructions sewn on new harnesses.
Ice screws with threads that were essentially a spring that was spot welded onto a smooth tube. The "threads" could strip right off of the tube under severe load.
Ice axes that failed catastrophically in use (picks snapped).
Stainless steel versions of "brassies" that were so damned hard that that the rock couldn't bite into them. They lifted out under rope drag far easier than any other nuts on the market at the time.
A mis-marked drill bit larger than indicated size.
All this from name brand manufacturers that were trying to do a good job. Still, some of my most cherished pieces were Eastern Block titanium ice screws (no two exactly the same) that were each, essentially, one-off prototypes. Though I would imagine things are at least somewhat better today, when it comes to climbing equipment, it's best to assume a buyer-beware attitude.
SLCs that could too easily lose their cams off the ends of the axels.
Force limiting draws that caused caribiner failure.
Locking carabiners that would become locked in a gate open position after having been carefully locked shut.
Carabiners prone to cross-loading and ripping the sheath of the rope.
Disasterously incorrect buckle lacing instructions sewn on new harnesses.
Ice screws with threads that were essentially a spring that was spot welded onto a smooth tube. The "threads" could strip right off of the tube under severe load.
Ice axes that failed catastrophically in use (picks snapped).
Stainless steel versions of "brassies" that were so damned hard that that the rock couldn't bite into them. They lifted out under rope drag far easier than any other nuts on the market at the time.
A mis-marked drill bit larger than indicated size.
All this from name brand manufacturers that were trying to do a good job. Still, some of my most cherished pieces were Eastern Block titanium ice screws (no two exactly the same) that were each, essentially, one-off prototypes. Though I would imagine things are at least somewhat better today, when it comes to climbing equipment, it's best to assume a buyer-beware attitude.
I kinda miss mike. We should go kidnap him and climb a rock.
... 8) 
