What sport routes at the Red require a 70 meter rope?

Post by **Dman** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 12:56 pm

yeah on whiteout it takes a 70 to get althe way to the ground but can be done with a 60 if you break it down in to raps by stopping at the white out direct anchors so no 70 needed for whiteout

Post by **rohr** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:47 pm

Does anyone know a better way to this other than what I just mentioned?

I'm not sure this is any less of a hassle than the method you described, but one way to do it would be to use a biner block. This page has a good explanation: http://www.canyonwiki.com/wiki/index.php/'biner_block

You'll drop your rope so that one end is on the ground and the other end is hanging in the air. Set up the biner block, then do a single-line rappel on the end that goes to the ground. When you get to the end of your rope that's dangling in the air, tie your 30' piece of rope to that. Rap the rest of the way to the ground, and pull the other end. Be careful and think about what you're doing because it would be really easy to screw this up. Make damn sure you set up the biner block correctly and that you rap on the right end of the rope.

The other (safer) option is to go climbing with someone who has a 70M rope. I hear woodchuck has one.

Post by **Redpoint** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 6:55 pm

If you were going to do a repel like that I would highly suggest tying knots on both ends of the rope to ensure you didn't go off of the end of it.

I never thought of that repel technique though, and it made me think of another one I could do:

I would bring a hand ascender with a footloop on it, and a chest ascender, and a cowstail(to hook the hand ascender to) with me on the climb(I own that stuff because of vertical caving).

After I get to the top and go IN DIRECT, I could have me belayer attach the 30 meter to to the end of the rope(this would make it so I didn't have to worry about repelling off of the end of the rope and so I wouldn't have to bring the rope with me for the climb).

Repel down to the double fishermans knot, attach both ascenders(always use two if your life is on the line), and then I could pass my repel device below the knot, and reattach it. Wrap the brake end of the rope around my leg 3 or 4 times. Stand up on the foot loop and take off my chest ascender, and then put all the weight on my repel device while holding on the brake side of the rope. And with my other hand unclip the hand ascender, unwrap the rope from my leg, and I would be on my way.

It sounds like it would take forever, but I can do that quite fast, and at least this way you don't have to go in direct to just a single bolt. The only drawback is having to bring 2 hand ascenders, 3 extra biners, and the footloop and cowstail with me for the climb, but at least it is a very safe way of doing it.

It would have been much better if I just got a 70 meter rope to start with, but I wanted the Mammut Supersafe, and it was on sale for %25 off when I got it at EMS.com, and all they had was the 60 meter.

Post by **goodguy** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:28 am

Ron. Are you ok man?

Post by **Wes** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:13 am

You could do all that. Or, for most of the routes that need a 70, just don't clip the chains and take the ride.

PS, what is wrong with going in direct to just one bolt? It's not like you aren't already betting your heath/life on one bolt much of the time already anyway...

Redpoint wrote:If you were going to do a repel like that I would highly suggest tying knots on both ends of the rope to ensure you didn't go off of the end of it.

I never thought of that repel technique though, and it made me think of another one I could do:

I would bring a hand ascender with a footloop on it, and a chest ascender, and a cowstail(to hook the hand ascender to) with me on the climb(I own that stuff because of vertical caving).

After I get to the top and go IN DIRECT, I could have me belayer attach the 30 meter to to the end of the rope(this would make it so I didn't have to worry about repelling off of the end of the rope and so I wouldn't have to bring the rope with me for the climb).

Repel down to the double fishermans knot, attach both ascenders(always use two if your life is on the line), and then I could pass my repel device below the knot, and reattach it. Wrap the brake end of the rope around my leg 3 or 4 times. Stand up on the foot loop and take off my chest ascender, and then put all the weight on my repel device while holding on the brake side of the rope. And with my other hand unclip the hand ascender, unwrap the rope from my leg, and I would be on my way.

It sounds like it would take forever, but I can do that quite fast, and at least this way you don't have to go in direct to just a single bolt. The only drawback is having to bring 2 hand ascenders, 3 extra biners, and the footloop and cowstail with me for the climb, but at least it is a very safe way of doing it.

It would have been much better if I just got a 70 meter rope to start with, but I wanted the Mammut Supersafe, and it was on sale for %25 off when I got it at EMS.com, and all they had was the 60 meter.

Post by **heavyc** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:27 am

You need a 70 meter on Deep Six at Global village

Post by **Redpoint** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:27 am

I also realized that if you ever have to bail with a bail biner, you would be rapping from one bolt. It's just after reading John Long's book "Rock Climbing Anchors" I am ever so paranoid, his motto is redundancy is the key to staying alive. In vertical caving you are also told to never rap from anything less than two anchors, and my book "The Complete Climber's Handbook" also says the same thing. If you went in direct to the first bolt and were just 15 feet off of the ground, I don't see it being a big deal anyhow. Mainly I just wanted to figure out what the safest way to add an extra rope and be able to pass the knot would be.

Post by **flashmaster** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:36 am

I like Dario's 100m rope!!

Post by **allah** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:45 am

yea you need an 9.1 80 plus for everything

Post by **john e aragon** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 2:20 am

I feel that i must clarify my earlier statement that Party Time (70M rope) is the best damn 7 in the world. Reason: i can type this, hit submit, then clip the anchors on that route and be back here typing in about and hour. Proximity makes it great!