Gaia.... terrifying.

Post by **L K Day** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 9:57 am

It doesn't surprise me that Americans kick Limey ass. Still, I think the gritstone classics are cool as hell. Their time as any kind of cutting edge of bold cragging may be past, but that's OK. Some of the British climbers I've met, arrogant louts living on the dole, could stand a dose of humility.

Post by **michaelarmand** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 9:10 pm

512OW wrote: Several people have taken that fall, with a crash pad on the arete, and just gotten a little bruised.

Going to those lengths, seriously why not add a bolt? Wait I have a better idea - set up one of those giant inflatable mats they use to catch people jumping off buildings. No rope(s) required! So could it be called a free solo?

I will never understand some climbing ethics....

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:41 pm

michaelarmand wrote:
512OW wrote: Several people have taken that fall, with a crash pad on the arete, and just gotten a little bruised.
Going to those lengths, seriously why not add a bolt? Wait I have a better idea - set up one of those giant inflatable mats they use to catch people jumping off buildings. No rope(s) required! So could it be called a free solo?

I will never understand some climbing ethics....

The ethic there is maybe the most simplistic. No bolts. Anything else goes, just be honest about it. Its the grading system there that is mystifying.

Here, the ethical lines are ridiculous.

Post by **Xtant** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 1:38 am

I'm not sure how a crash pad on the arete would be unethical? Are they unethical on the ground when the danger is hitting the ground? Obviously not.

Post by **pkananen** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 1:47 am

512OW wrote:
michaelarmand wrote:
512OW wrote: Several people have taken that fall, with a crash pad on the arete, and just gotten a little bruised.
Going to those lengths, seriously why not add a bolt? Wait I have a better idea - set up one of those giant inflatable mats they use to catch people jumping off buildings. No rope(s) required! So could it be called a free solo?

I will never understand some climbing ethics....
The ethic there is maybe the most simplistic. No bolts. Anything else goes, just be honest about it. Its the grading system there that is mystifying.

Here, the ethical lines are ridiculous.

I thought crash pads for gritstone headpoints were typically frowned upon too.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 1:55 am

pkananen wrote:
512OW wrote:
michaelarmand wrote:
Going to those lengths, seriously why not add a bolt? Wait I have a better idea - set up one of those giant inflatable mats they use to catch people jumping off buildings. No rope(s) required! So could it be called a free solo?

I will never understand some climbing ethics....
The ethic there is maybe the most simplistic. No bolts. Anything else goes, just be honest about it. Its the grading system there that is mystifying.

Here, the ethical lines are ridiculous.
I thought crash pads for gritstone headpoints were typically frowned upon too.

Only if they aren't honest about it, according to James Pearson.

Post by **sendit** » Thu Dec 25, 2008 3:42 pm

speaking of terrifying, when will we see the 2nd ascent of Snotrocket? I heard Alex Honnold got booted off of it when he came here. The flash or onsight of that thing would be pretty sick.

Post by **Fartspray** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 2:09 am

I am so scared from reading these posts...Online camera scammers, scary trad routes, bolting cracks, and the pedophile in the polyester red suit......

Post by **L K Day** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 1:58 pm

Climbers always confuse style with ethics. Guess that will never change, at least until there are no ethics and style doesn't matter.