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All this kind of ties in with the complaints about us old schoolers' sandbag routes.
It's really hard to rate the difficulty of FA trad in The Red because holds are crumbling like crazy as you go. Everybody knows you need good footwork, but put too much weight on your feet on many new lines and you're going to pop for sure when an edge explodes. I can remember climbing a lot of pitches "all arms" because it was impossible to trust my feet on the little iron concretions. Just remember all those 8+ "sandbags" were a lot harder on the FA, and we judged them 8+ as we found 'em. Same for the 9s and 10s.

Funny about DAB. I did the second ascent of that route and remember the second pitch as stellar! In fact, it blows my mind that people don't climb this route all the way to the top today. I mean, WTF?

DAB aint the only one, day. we did frenchburg overhangs recently & at the end of the 1st pitch is a nest of webbing on the tree ledge. We did the 2nd pitch, & guess what, no webbing. i doubt this is related to choss tho, probably the wide factor that scares them away.
oh and btw, you're a total sandbagger.

L Day wrote:All this kind of ties in with the complaints about us old schoolers' sandbag routes.

I think the old school grades are actually kind of soft.

They're way soft. All the old 10s are really 7s, and still they're too hard for the modern sport weenie!

Not sure about the sport weenie thing. Ethan Pringle (a modern sport weenie) decided to try trad climbing. Shortly after that decision he did Cobra Crack. So much for the black magic, years of skill, jamming practice and gear placing required to climb trad.

When it comes to talking smack, I'm not even in the same league.

Y'all don't know what choss is--

go to little river canyon and experience real choss.

SportClimbingIsNeither wrote:I like sportie weenies.

your sick

RRO wrote:

SportClimbingIsNeither wrote:I like sportie weenies.

That's funny because I like to stick my testicles inside of a paint ball gun and pull the trigger so it poofs them halfway up the barrel which gives me a slight tug on the anus and reminds me of the time I played Brokeback Mountain with my best man friend JR in back of the field that we had the 2007 Rock Trip on.

Geez dude, that was way too much information.

I love you.