RRC Archives

A question:
I went to the gym this weekend, first time in 9-10 mo, was humiliated by routes of the same "grade" I've been climbing outside all summer. Aside from uncovering some of my specific weaknesses it was a surprise. Anybody else have this experience? Should I just give up now?

I agree with 512OW on all accounts yet to answer trog's question: gym climbing and outdoor climbing are not the same and its often the case where you can be strong in one but not the other. Be glad you are stronger outside than in. My favorite thing to see is the skinny 20 something crushing at the gym but can't get up a 5.10 at the red.

Another reason is that you're climbing 70-80 foot routes outside. Pack the difficulty into 30 feet, and its a type of climbing closer to bouldering than the endurance climbing at the Red.

512OW wrote:Another reason is that you're climbing 70-80 foot routes outside. Pack the difficulty into 30 feet, and its a type of climbing closer to bouldering than the endurance climbing at the Red.

Yeah, ah Kris, I have a little secret for you. This is why I do something at the gym I call recovery training. I will tell you about sometime for a fee that you can probably afford. Just contact my business manner.

rhunt wrote:I agree with 512OW on all accounts yet to answer trog's question: gym climbing and outdoor climbing are not the same and its often the case where you can be strong in one but not the other. Be glad you are stronger outside than in. My favorite thing to see is the skinny 20 something crushing at the gym but can't get up a 5.10 at the red.

usually has to do with a lack of experience. If you never climb outside, then of course you would fail on 5.10s at the red. If you have climbed outside a fair bit, performance in the gym would correlate pretty closely to performance outside

You still need power to do hard routes at the red and training only for endurance will never give you that power. Training for power on the other hand will give you some endurance. Find a way to mix the two together and you're all set.

The pro euro comp climbers NEVER train outside for comps and there's a reason for that. Being strong on plastic is not usually (sharma) the same as being strong on rock.

Rhunt, you should stop believing what you read. The only time your theory holds true is if you're technique is already perfect, otherwise training endurance will make your technique better, thus improving your "power". My bouldering went up 2 V grades from endurance training.

YO 512OW, you really are pretty good at being an ass. Its not about what I've read, its about what has worked for me and most of the people I have climb with over the past 15 years. When you were off in search of the next wide crack, I was working routes at the lode/darkside/solar/etc, etc. All we have ever had here in Columbus is a 23 foot tall climbing gym and look how many strong climbers have come out of Columbus. Bouldering only will give you both power and endurance, that's not what I have read its what i have experienced.

I love climbing in the gym as an end in itself. It's one of my favourite places to be on the planet.

Because I have one.