Accident at Roadside?

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rhunt
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Post by rhunt »

and keep it simple....
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

Ive seen it before too. We came really close to the same thing. Myself and my partner were watching and thought something wasn't right. He yelled for the climber not to unclip just in time and we put someone on belay on the other end of the rope. we were using 2 ropes so it was confusing for all 4 of us.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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Toad
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Post by Toad »

B.A.R.K.
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camhead
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Post by camhead »

wow. I now understand what they were trying to do, and how they messed it up, and I can say I've never heard of an accident happening this way before. Best wishes to the victim's recovery.
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the lurkist
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Post by the lurkist »

I spoke with the girl who fell. As to the thought process that went in to the mistake, she said she was trying this technique of clipping into a bight in the middle of the rope and thought it would be helpful in checking the swing from TRing up the steep Ro. She said it was her intention to have someone else giving her tension on the trailing end and allowing her to dog her way up and get her gear back witihout fighting the swing so much. Small omission was that she didn't get anyone on the other end to put her on.
She said she feels really stupid and realizes she was trying to do something unconventional that she didn't understand.

I think the take home here is if you are a neophyte at the sport (which I get the feeling she is) , don't try to talk yourself into a situation that you really don't have any experience with.
And another take home is don't assume (as the belayer has said) that just because some one talks a confidant game that they are actually in control. I say this not to disparage the injured girl, but she seemed very self confidant and I could easily see her confidence beguiling less experience climbers around her.
If something doesn't seem right, say something.
I think of Terry and him probably overstepping the conventional bounds of familiarity with a party at the cliff that he didn't know from Adam to tell them in no uncertain terms that they were fucking up. This situation called for that.

I am truly sorry for your mental angst, Utahgirl. Live and learn and don't give up on the sport. You'll be ok.

Same for the fallen girl. It sounds like her body will heal. I hope her psyche will too.
all the best....
Lurk
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
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rjackson
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Post by rjackson »

I want to thank them and also say that I'm impressed that the parties involved have been able to share with the community what happened first hand. Everyone should be able to learn and take something away from this post. I have.

And best wishes to both for speedy physical and mental recoveries. Stay strong, it's all just life lessons.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
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Crankmas
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Post by Crankmas »

Gravity is a cruel mistress... The Tick may you all find comfort and healing
TankAzz
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Post by TankAzz »

the lurkist wrote:I
I think of Terry and him probably overstepping the conventional bounds of familiarity with a party at the cliff that he didn't know from Adam to tell them in no uncertain terms that they were fucking up. This situation called for that.

Lurk
gosh, terry saved my butt once. we were climbing awol at roadside (ironically), and it started to rain. it was early in my climbing career and i'd never cleaned before, and he walked up as a friend started to "talk me through" cleaning during the storm, while i was at the anchors. terry was basically like, "hell no, lower her and someone else clean the route." it may have ended up just fine, but maybe not. people may resent someone "stepping on their toes," but you never know who you might save.
Courtesy of Andrew: "I don't think you will damage your escort unless she trips because she is so strung out on blow. Most people just take them to the rest area."
Meadows
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Post by Meadows »

the lurkist wrote:I spoke with the girl who fell. As to the thought process that went in to the mistake, she said she was trying this technique of clipping into a bight in the middle of the rope and thought it would be helpful in checking the swing from TRing
Ah, now I get what they were trying to do. Yeah, two belayers and two ropes work best (you have TR belay and a lead belay at the same time). Works great on Synchronicity for when you have a TR hanging and no gear (and a climber at her limit).
rhunt
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Post by rhunt »

I have a few "walk away" moments while at the cliff - number one being when I hear someone being taught at the anchors how to clean/transfer. Its not that I would not help if someone is injuried, I just don't want to see it happen.
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
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