captain static wrote:Climbing was a demonstration sport during the Olympics in Greece. USA Climbing is recognized by the USOC. I would think it is only a matter of time before climbing will be in the Olympics. What is really needed to make climbing appealing to the general public is good commentators.
I can't find anything on the web about climbing as a demonstration sport - anyone have any links? The closest thing I've found is that there was a little climbing (not ice climbing) at the Torino '06 Winter Olympics. They invited 20 or so climbers and did some bouldering demonstrations and did a little climbing with the snowboarders as a way of showing climbing off to the IOC. On the down side, this sounds pretty half-assed. On the upside, in 2007, the IOC offered a two-year provisional recognition to the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Thus, climbing is an officially recognized sport, along with korfball(?!), DanceSport, "billiard sports", water skiing, chess and bowling. Yeah, sounds like climbing is a sure thing for inclusion!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympic_sp ... zed_sports
Despite recognition, I doubt it will probably ever be added. Any new Olympic sports have to be very TV friendly.
The big (and ironic) aspect of this is comp climbing vs. the Olympic motto:
Higher = Difficulty
Faster = Speed Climbing
Stronger = Bouldering
It's such an absurdly perfect fit!
Outside of the US, there is a very strong comp climbing system, where the athletes train like any other world class athlete and go long periods of time never touching real rock (it wouldn't add to their training for plastic...) While they don't have the ultra-cutting edge training programs and facilities (and performance
enhancing drugs...) of the big money Olympic sports like track and field or swimming, it's on par with the serious training of lots of other events. (To get IOC recognition, I think that the ISFC is already testing for both performance enhancing drugs and the drugs that get tested for because of US politics, so they've got that covered.)
(As a side note, I'm sure that there are a lot more comp climbers in the world than participants in "Modern" Pentathlon - which intentionally simulates what a 19th century cavalry soldier would experience being lost behind enemy lines: sword fighting (saber fencing), pistol shooting, riding an unfamiliar horse, swimming and running. Cool - but wha?!?)
But the only events that are added are ones that generate TV ratings - particularly in the US. That is the only explanation for adding baseball/softball. (and the ratings didn't pay out, so they've been dropped.) Turn on the TV coverage in the US - hours of 'beach volleyball' (made for TV event), 'synchro diving' (?!?! again, made for TV) and this round, BMX as a play to get some youth-oriented, "action sport" demographics/ratings. (If they had selected an "action sport" purely on a 'sporting' basis, it would have to be skateboarding halfpipe. But like comp climbing, most TV viewers have no clue just how hard it is to do even the most basic stuff, thus so-so ratings.) Tennis is another good example - it was an early modern Olympic event, but was dropped decades ago. But once TV ratings for Tennis improved (and pros were allowed in the Olympics - another TV ratings based decision) Tennis was added back.
While good informative introductory videos and better commentators would help people 'get' climbing, I don't think it will ever be enough. ESPN tried climbing in the X-Games, and it shriveled and died because of lack of ratings. I think that pretty well dooms climbing for the TV-driven Olympics.
(On a WTF!?! note - Bridge (yes, the card game) has been trying for years to be added to the Olympics. Seriously!)