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Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:28 pm
by JR
stix wrote:the moves out right on twinkie are the best on the route....when i first got on the route i was getting pumped and fallin off on those moves and tried goin straight up to the rest but it was too chossy to climb on. enough wankers not strong enough for the route plus 6-7 years equals 11c
Nice try. Still 12a.
stix wrote:people skip the redpoint crux on cell block 6 by traversing right on the horizontal to connect to the next horizontal as opposed to going straight up through the 2 finger pocket and edges. their loss, they miss the best moves and the route and i'm sure cell block 3 is a really fun 11d
Still 12c.
Do you do everything the hard way?
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:36 pm
by pigsteak
agreed jr. the FA also used the ledge to ledge connection on cell block....so stix is actually cheating by not following the beta of the FA. stix, please do not do revisionist theory..are you sure you aren't a democrat?
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 6:31 pm
by MSMITH
I'm sure Cell Block 9 is a really retarded 12c+
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 9:46 pm
by stix
are we talking about the moves up high on cell block? not the long move around the middle with multiple types of beta. there is no way that route is 12c if you go right between the last 2 bolts. harder or not those are the best moves on cell block and twinkie. worth workin the routes that way for sure
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:34 am
by tutugirl
How about if you are tall and skip the hard moves on a route? I vote for cutting a few inches of some people...
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:40 am
by krampus
tutugirl wrote:How about if you are tall and skip the hard moves on a route? I vote for cutting a few inches of some people...
I think the biggest example is Hard Core Jollies. That thing is a hard 10 if your tall but substancially harder if you are below 5'8. I had far more trouble with prime directive than I did with Jollies.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:55 am
by Andrew
You are wrong, the crux on hardcore is hard if your extra tall. Height and climbing is like a bell curve. Extra hard if you are very short and extra hard if you are very tall 6'6" or more.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:03 am
by Meadows
Andrew has a point and I'll see if I can find the official physics explanation. Basically, the shorter you are, the more power you have because assuming your ape index is normal, you have a shorter pulling distance.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:34 am
by tutugirl
The shorter you are the stronger you get because you can't skip hard moves...so you learn to pull on little shit or do powerful moves to make up.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:56 am
by rhunt
what if you're long and strong?