The ongoing weekend idiot report
Ya I forgot to include that a redpoint is lead climbing only, but honestly I thought everyone already knew that and so it wasn't worth typing.
I wrote a redpoint is on your 2nd or more try because if you sent it on your first try you would be claiming an onsight or a flash.
I know everyone hates wikipedia, but I thought it's definition of redpoint is interesting, and I wonder if this is truly it's origin:
"In climbing the term red pointing is derived from the German term rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid 70's at Frankenjura. He would paint a red x on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot or hand hold. Once he was able to Free Climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later.
Traditional climbing ethics require that all the protective gear be placed on lead.
Modern Sport climbing ethics do not consider it a red point if you successfully climb a route on toprope without using or weighting the gear or rope, though leading with preplaced quickdraws is allowed in some circles. Leading with pre-placed draws is also referred to as a pink point"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_point
I wrote a redpoint is on your 2nd or more try because if you sent it on your first try you would be claiming an onsight or a flash.
I know everyone hates wikipedia, but I thought it's definition of redpoint is interesting, and I wonder if this is truly it's origin:
"In climbing the term red pointing is derived from the German term rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid 70's at Frankenjura. He would paint a red x on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot or hand hold. Once he was able to Free Climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later.
Traditional climbing ethics require that all the protective gear be placed on lead.
Modern Sport climbing ethics do not consider it a red point if you successfully climb a route on toprope without using or weighting the gear or rope, though leading with preplaced quickdraws is allowed in some circles. Leading with pre-placed draws is also referred to as a pink point"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_point
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
True story.Redpoint wrote:Ya I forgot to include that a redpoint is lead climbing only, but honestly I thought everyone already knew that and so it wasn't worth typing.
I wrote a redpoint is on your 2nd or more try because if you sent it on your first try you would be claiming an onsight or a flash.
I know everyone hates wikipedia, but I thought it's definition of redpoint is interesting, and I wonder if this is truly it's origin:
"In climbing the term red pointing is derived from the German term rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid 70's at Frankenjura. He would paint a red x on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot or hand hold. Once he was able to Free Climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later.
Traditional climbing ethics require that all the protective gear be placed on lead.
Modern Sport climbing ethics do not consider it a red point if you successfully climb a route on toprope without using or weighting the gear or rope, though leading with preplaced quickdraws is allowed in some circles. Leading with pre-placed draws is also referred to as a pink point"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_point
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
JR, I'm 24, no idea if its a generational thing but your point is well made, there is def a difference in vernacular. I think I usually like the old school more, except in this whole onsight flash discussion.
For example of the new school i wish I could get mcrib to stop saying, "I'm going to go send this rig" or tbwilsonky to stop saying "mai flakes r sketchy" or joe's use of "rapid-rest-and-kill-deal"
For example of the new school i wish I could get mcrib to stop saying, "I'm going to go send this rig" or tbwilsonky to stop saying "mai flakes r sketchy" or joe's use of "rapid-rest-and-kill-deal"
all you haters die slow.
-
tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
psh. this is so old school.sendit wrote:"mai flakes r sketchy"
'mai flakes r sketchy" is how us old-schoolers used to say "this cliff i'm developing is a chosspile" back before anyone even knew what choss was. like in the 90's and stuff; actually probably before choss even existed.
history lesson over. you're welcome.
-t
haunted.
Why because I normally write too much anyhow or because you think I am bullshitting?
Before I chose this name I had read at least 5 definitions of redpoint from around the web and in my books, and the fun part is that no two were ever the same, some even conflicting with others. I think all of them said you had to be lead climbing for it to be a redpoint though.
I remember one of them even claimed you weren't allowed to downclimb(if you made a mistake) in order for it to be a redpoint.
Before I chose this name I had read at least 5 definitions of redpoint from around the web and in my books, and the fun part is that no two were ever the same, some even conflicting with others. I think all of them said you had to be lead climbing for it to be a redpoint though.
I remember one of them even claimed you weren't allowed to downclimb(if you made a mistake) in order for it to be a redpoint.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut