Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...

Post by **512OW** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 4:41 pm

captain static wrote:You can train for trad. Just do what the Beene bros. did, look for bridge abutments w/ appropriately sized expansion joints, tape up, and go for it.

Most of those around Cincy are filled with expansion foam. The others are really sharp inside. All of the above will end with the police showing up in about 10 minutes. The ones in N.Ky are ok, though the sizes don't offer any major challenges. The back of the old Globe Furniture showroom by Princeton H.S. has a series of off finger and tight hand cracks, but they're really shallow. All have been soloed at night. None are harder than 11b or so.

Post by **captain static** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:25 pm

512OW wrote:All of the above will end with the police showing up in about 10 minutes.

The extra challenges of buildering. We used to add a "Q" rating that indicated the lilelyhood of running afoul of the law. Unfortunately this has increased w/ all the Homeland Security bull. Back in the day I actually received permission to climb the Elsinore Castle Tower http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsinore_Arch_ The basic situation being before plastic was invented, urban climbers were desperate to climb anything manmade. I am trying to reinforce the point you were making that if you trained for trad like you did for sport you would realize that neither are "harder".

Post by **Danny** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:19 pm

Before Muir Valley grade for grade sport was harder in the red et al. Now it's about even.

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:03 pm

Danny wrote:Before Muir Valley grade for grade sport was harder in the red et al. Now it's about even.

yawn.....nice try. ever been to the Surf or right side of Boneyard? tick those, and let me know how the grades compare.

(btw, just trying to help out a thread gone on too long.)

Post by **Danny** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:53 pm

What are they sandbagging stuff now to make up for all the softies?

Post by **bcombs** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:15 pm

Haha... hop on Sweet Tater at the Boneyard. That thing is about 5-10 points shy of it's maximum value.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:05 am

Danny wrote:What are they sandbagging stuff now to make up for all the softies?

well, mr. danny, those routes I speak of have been up for over 2 years (some over 3), so it tells me you are writing from an outdated perspective

mr. combs, I couldn't help myself...lol

Post by **Danny** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:49 am

You're giving me a softy.

Post by **captain static** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:16 pm

Wasn't this a lyric?

"Sandbagging me softly with your climb"

Post by **Danny** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:25 pm

hardly ... but seriously, I am starting to get a woodie for the Surf. That'll be my goal for 2009 till I send Shiva