Page 18 of 23
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 11:45 am
by SikMonkey
Hey Wes,
get on those routes with the V4 and V5 cruxes you seek. The only difference is that you will be pulling them at X feet off the deck, Y feet above your last bolt, with a pump and with Z pounds of crap in your shorts! THAT'S where the fun stuff is. A nice long, steep route can turn a nice easy V1 or V2 into screaming hell.
Mj
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 12:00 pm
by Wes
Yep, that is why roped climbing sucks. You have to do all this boring, left-right, left-right climbing just to get to the cool couple moves. And you have to deal with draws, ropes, knots and all that stuff. With bouldering, it is all about that crux, without all that wasted time. Big deal about being Y feet above your last bolt. I mean, catching 30 feet of air is nothing compared to a 10 foot groundfall.
Wes
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 12:43 pm
by kato
...onto a stack of five boulder pads. Just like the princess and the pea!
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:11 pm
by SikMonkey
Yeah, it's more like a *poof* than a *thud* when you hit.
And yes, the thirty feet of air is equal to the 10 feet of groundfall in the sense that they both signify that you F*UCKED UP! I don't think the left right left right is wasted climbing at all though. On routes, not only is your strength and technique being tested, but so is your endurance and mental fortitude. If you aren't getting a rise out of routes, you definitely aren't pushing yourself on the right routes. If that's your thing though, it's all good. I am definitely not here to start a sport vs. bouldering debate, I just think your rationalization is a bit skewed.
Do me a favor and try this though: Go out and get on Buff the Wood (or Stain if you really want some fun) and REALLY push yourself to send it, THEN come back and tell me route climbing is boring. There is only one 5 foot section of your "boring" left right climbing on that route. The start is a boulder problem, followed by a boulder problem to a jug, two or three "boring" moves to another boulder problem, then easy bouldering out to the anchors. And hey, those moves can't be any harder than V2 so that should be no problem, right?
Mj
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:44 pm
by Wes
Since you have to point out one or two routes that are cool, it just shows that all the other ones are lame.
Wes
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:50 pm
by Power2U
But wait the Red is the Bobdiggity right? I mean hundreds of sport climbs of left, right, left for morons with only 10 or so cool routes that acutually have moves. It is no wonder this place is so crowded with climbers....we're all stuid and need left right left, duh
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:56 pm
by Wes
Yep. You seem to have a pretty good handle on things around there.
Bouldererer4life
Wes
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 2:08 pm
by SikMonkey
Ha Ha!
Wes, you know those are just the first two that came to mind! That's ok though. We all just try to make a case for things we like. If you don't like monkeying with gear then by all means, boulder your heart out. Just a note though, the tone of your posts make you sound a little bitter over something.
Mj
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 2:10 pm
by Wes
And we all try to justify the things we do that are dumb. Like boring left-right-left-right climbing in the red. But that's OK, though. You just might not know any better.
Wes
Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 2:12 pm
by air canada
I think Wes is just too attatched to his bourbon and ale-8. If he's out bouldering he can always get his fix and still fall on the pads. But if he messes up his knot...