RRC Archives

Andrew wrote:

der uber wrote:

Andrew wrote:AO bolting job on his right project on the Golden Ticket wall is a mess. I am all for people developing, but damn... I hope he fixes it soon.

how about that heavily protected 4th-5th-6th bolt section. I'm skipping a couple when I am on point.

exactly

Sounds like the 1st-26th bolt at the bronaugh wall

He was setting it up as a lower anchor option for us weaklings. To first set of anchors 5.14 and to second is a 15.

Did anyone tell him to plug the old holes?

Perhaps there are so many bolts because there is an intention to skip some, but which ones are unknown? I always wonder when watching Sharma or whoever climb and they skip bolt after bolt in what seems like hard moves, presumably too hard to clip. Did they find out they were too hard to clip the hard way or just plug the whole wall and then figure it out later once the sequences are worked out?

I have to smile thinking about what is being referred to as the clipping jug on the route.

Oh, and Piggie. Are you in your car posting to RRC from Rodeo Drive? I hope its an iPhone or you might get spit on.

Ha ha.. that is funny, cause I had the exact same picture in my mind. Except he can't be in the car doing it because he is paying the valet $2.75 every 15 minutes to have his car parked. He is leaning up against some wall, by a store that his better half is in.

They put the bolts every 3 feet because the route are so steep they have to do them ground up, or if they are rap bolting them they also have to place them closely together so they stay close to the wall, and with in arms reach.

When they first bolted the mother load they did many of them ground up. They would place a bolt, then a rivet ( which I think many are still in the rock). The rivet is still putting a hole in the rock, but it is much smaller and quicker.

I do think it is funny to see all these new routes that are futuristic and the bolts are way closer together then many bolt ladders I have climbed...

Yep, on routes that hard there is no gear to place for directionals or intermediate bodyweight pieces, and you sure as hell don't want to try to hook on what may be one of the only holds in a particular section. Ondra was using RBs between the pro bolts he left as well.