Spraylord Wanted
November in Pinedale, WY.
I am getting close to a 5.11- crack. It's only 20 feet of hard climbing, then eases to about 5.9 for the last 40. It's like a right angling Doppler Effect, but with crappy jams and slippery granite underfoot. The crux is only 4 feet long, but it's technical jamming with one foot in the crack and the other on a marginal smear. Once you get through that, you swing your feet through to a decent foot and rock up on in and finish the tough part with a no-hands rest. Next is slabby crack climbing, a little chimney, and then a sweet finish where you have to bridge a chimney of sorts, toss a heel hook, and rock up to a jug. Best crack around here... not that it's 5 stars or anything, but we take what we can get.
Been climbing it in 30 degree temps at 9000 feet. Hoping I get a couple more goes before the snow comes. If not, I'll have a spring project!
I am getting close to a 5.11- crack. It's only 20 feet of hard climbing, then eases to about 5.9 for the last 40. It's like a right angling Doppler Effect, but with crappy jams and slippery granite underfoot. The crux is only 4 feet long, but it's technical jamming with one foot in the crack and the other on a marginal smear. Once you get through that, you swing your feet through to a decent foot and rock up on in and finish the tough part with a no-hands rest. Next is slabby crack climbing, a little chimney, and then a sweet finish where you have to bridge a chimney of sorts, toss a heel hook, and rock up to a jug. Best crack around here... not that it's 5 stars or anything, but we take what we can get.
Been climbing it in 30 degree temps at 9000 feet. Hoping I get a couple more goes before the snow comes. If not, I'll have a spring project!
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
I can imagine the cold, but not the altitude! Awesome.JB wrote:Been climbing it in 30 degree temps at 9000 feet. Hoping I get a couple more goes before the snow comes. If not, I'll have a spring project!
On another note...
So pigsteak is not going to post it, and will probably HATE seeing that I have posted, but yes, there has been yet ANOTHER high point on his project. Just when you thought he couldn't get any higher without sending, he does. To be sooooo close can be frustrating, but then it can also be inspirational!
The weather wasn't perfect and he wasn't even feeling it... cruised through the lower cruxes and executed beautifully at the top. I think it was really a case of OMG, I didn't expect to get this far. And no takes, a great whipper from the ledge.
So give the man some love and can keep him from the depths of despair!
Good job man, it ain't over.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
-
OSUbuckeye
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:40 am
Climbing this weekend with some first timers to the red and I'm going to have to drag them up the wonderful approach to the Zoo so I can actually top out my 11b (Cannonball) unlike my deafening fall on the last move of the 80ft climb. Don't worry, after I get it I'll spray for the rest of the day about how I'm properly warmed up and ready for some tough climbs.
Oh, and brace yourselves the the Army invasion on friday at Miguel's, we're coming in force.
Oh, and brace yourselves the the Army invasion on friday at Miguel's, we're coming in force.
something about this seems dangerousOSUbuckeye wrote:Climbing this weekend with some first timers to the red and I'm going to have to drag them up the wonderful approach to the Zoo so I can actually top out my 11b (Cannonball) unlike my deafening fall on the last move of the 80ft climb. Don't worry, after I get it I'll spray for the rest of the day about how I'm properly warmed up and ready for some tough climbs.
Oh, and brace yourselves the the Army invasion on friday at Miguel's, we're coming in force.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
Nice work Tania!
I finaly sent trocs. Not a big deal, it was never a grudge or anything. But it was a good send for me because I learned a few things that will help me improve.
1) take full advantage of rests
2) your never too old to learn something new
3) I am grateful to be climbing with a couple of great partners
4) I should listen to these partners more often
I finaly sent trocs. Not a big deal, it was never a grudge or anything. But it was a good send for me because I learned a few things that will help me improve.
1) take full advantage of rests
2) your never too old to learn something new
3) I am grateful to be climbing with a couple of great partners
4) I should listen to these partners more often