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Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 10:26 pm
by trog
does this mean I have to take back all my redpoint onsight flashes hanging the draws from my list? and I was just getting comfortable sleeping in my harness and helmet...
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:19 am
by 512OW
I suppose that technically, an onsight (which is a flash), is also a redpoint. So... maybe piggie is the real noob here...
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:00 am
by Redpoint
Well more technically an onsight (which is different from a flash), is also different from a redpoint since a onsight means you sent it on your first attempt without beta, a flash is when you sent it your first attempt with beta, and an onisight means you sent it on your second or more try, and so I think the whole thing is hilarious, and this is a pretty big run-on sentence.
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:16 am
by Shamis
No, redpoint just means you sent it while hanging the draws, infinite tries. But then again, nobody uses the term pinkpoint anymore, so redpoint has lost its meaning. Redpoint now includes stick clipping the 4th draw. lol.
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:49 am
by Saxman
Redpoint wrote:onisight means you sent it on your second or more try,
Wow, I have been so misinformed. I guess I need to read more climbing books.
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:06 pm
by 512OW
Redpoint wrote:Well more technically an onsight (which is different from a flash), is also different from a redpoint since a onsight means you sent it on your first attempt without beta, a flash is when you sent it your first attempt with beta, and an onisight means you sent it on your second or more try, and so I think the whole thing is hilarious, and this is a pretty big run-on sentence.
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 2:39 pm
by sendit
512OW wrote:
No, an onsight IS a flash. In fact, the term was originally "onsight flash". Both terms are also redpoints, since all a redpoint means is that you climbed from the bottom to the top without weighting the rope or gear, on lead, whether you flash it, onsight it, or do it on your 383723804 attempt (which for some people nowadays would be converted to 3rd redpoint attempt).
An onsight is NOT the same as a flash....
For example, Sean McColl flashed thanatopsis because he was coached/sprayed down on the route. Here's a video of him discussing flashing Thana and onsighting white mans....
http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.ph ... ean-McColl
More reference...
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www. ... eId%3D4007[/i]
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 2:47 pm
by ahab
Redpoint wrote:is not
512OW wrote:nuh-uh
sendit wrote:uh-huh
512OW wrote:is not
Redpoint wrote:is so
yawn.
with a user name like redpoint, he
obviously knows what he's talking about. just take his word for it, k?
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:28 pm
by Shamis
Flash - n. completion of a climb first try with no falls. 2. (vb.) to perform a flash.
Onsight - n/vb. a clean ascent with no falls, first try, with no prior knowledge of the route.
Redpoint - n/vb. a clean ascent with no falls, placing protection while climbing.
Pinkpoint - n.vb. A clean (no-falls) ascent of a route on lead with gear pre-placed. The climber need only clip the rope into the preplaced protection while climbing. Note: This term has disappeared from sport climbing terminology with all clean leads called redpoints.
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:38 pm
by Saxman
Redpoint wrote:That is not what John Long said in How to Rock Climb, Advanced Rock Climbing, Climbing Anchors, More Climbing Anchors, or Climbing Anchors 2nd Ed. so fuck you all.