RRC Archives

Point Dustin. Plus this one is nowhere as beautiful as the dihedral at A6.

I am pretty sure that there are more than a few bolted cracks at those cliffs. So next time I bolt a crack (I never have) I will make sure to do it at a secret crag.

ps. Meg, I just wanted to tell you thank you for all your help rebolting routes and cleaning up mank gear over the past couple years. It was a pleasure working with you.

pps. My next route will be called "passive aggressive ethical warrior"

Mike and Andrew: Please leave EGBG right where it is for all the right reasons. In general I think you boyz are an asset to RR climbing. Hugs all around. Watch out for Meg. She is psycho.

caribe wrote:Mike and Andrew: Please leave EGBG right where it is for all the right reasons. In general I think you boyz are an asset to RR climbing. Hugs all around. Watch out for Meg. She is psycho.

What the hell does "in general" mean?

for the record, pigsteak, you walked back a little in agreeing with the overall lack of trad climbs, but both your longer post are more broadly (as LKD said about one)
wildly incorrect. someday, i hope you'll stop being fascinated by your own opinions and consider the options. i intend to help.

Andrew wrote:

caribe wrote:Mike and Andrew: Please leave EGBG right where it is for all the right reasons. In general I think you boyz are an asset to RR climbing. Hugs all around. Watch out for Meg. She is psycho.

What the hell does "in general" mean?

LOL, and off comes the band aid.

yeah, so? IF you're right, why get involved?

anyway, i'll read the Crimea article and get back to you on the 'axiomatic' distinction between trad and sport routes that the original post seems to overlook.

Well, this a public forum. I am hardly involved. Lastly, both are good guys and you know as we'll asi that this tiff won't amount to anything.

Its hardly a tiff. It's more like when an old couple that's been married 50 years pretends to quibble over something like the toilet seat being left up or down or whatever's preferred these days.

yeah, it's a little sad if so. i accept Andrew's concerns, and even as he could have posted his concerns to megmay privately, i think the public discussion is good, and hope it has an effect (that is, amounts to something)

this article is jacked. some confusing ruskieinkshyisms. and this:
Though originally quite controversial, this top-down style of establishing big-wall free climbs has become accepted in many areas including the iconic trad bastion of Yosemite. Almost every first free ascent on El Capitan, for example, has employed this decidedly non-traditional (i.e., top-down) approach.

really?? i thought most of el cap free routes were definitely established ground up as aid routes. i am no Yosemite climb historian and would have to look into this but i am very dubious...