RRC Archives

Isn't that just a normal weekend at Fortress?

And trad is definitely NOT a fad as I was climbing at a super secret crag with some of the hippest climbers that the red has to offer, and nary a one pulled out a cam (though there was mention of nuts). If trad were really a fad they would have been hang-dogging on the sick 5.7 for sure...

How come the super secret crag had 20 climbers?

Because that's the "real" fad...

dustonian wrote:The Red is such a bizarre little bubble of dependent sportwankery. I've never been to a place with so many people that have never placed a piece of gear in their lives, have no idea how to build an anchor or self rescue, and have no awareness of any of the history of climbing or where the sport came from. Half the people can't even rappel or tighten down a loose hanger for chrissakes! Even most of the climbers in Rumney go to North Conway or the Adirondacks from time to time for the kick-ass crack climbing.

Dustonian, you are absolutely correct on your referenced statement/position. First and foremost, climbing is enjoyed by all of us, be it Sport, Trad or nowadays, Bouldering and of course the Solo climbers.
But, without Traditional (for those that don't know what Trad stands for) other climbing ways would be in vain. First came the Alpine pioneers (without ropes in most cases), Whymper, Saussure in the 1700's, then the Everest pioneers (in the 20's) Mallory and all the rest. Then Royal Robbins, Chouinard (50's and 60's) the early Yosemite climbers with pitons, hand made bolts. Finally came the Sport routes with all the nice hangers/bolts/chains/that made it safer for those coming out of climbing gyms to continue and grow their climbing skills and enjoy the sport.
But it is the Tradationalist that had to have great knoledge to protect himself, know how to self rescue, rappel, perfect anchor building, know many knots, forces and equations to go up vertically on rock faces in some of the most beautiful mountains/crags in the world. They weren't on a climbing marathon, to climb as many Sport routes as they could in a day, but a beautiful journey to take it all in !

Bill Johnson wrote:

dustonian wrote:The Red is such a bizarre little bubble of dependent sportwankery. I've never been to a place with so many people that have never placed a piece of gear in their lives, have no idea how to build an anchor or self rescue, and have no awareness of any of the history of climbing or where the sport came from. Half the people can't even rappel or tighten down a loose hanger for chrissakes! Even most of the climbers in Rumney go to North Conway or the Adirondacks from time to time for the kick-ass crack climbing.

Dustonian, you are absolutely correct on your referenced statement/position. First and foremost, climbing is enjoyed by all of us, be it Sport, Trad or nowadays, Bouldering and of course the Solo climbers.
But, without Traditional (for those that don't know what Trad stands for) other climbing ways would be in vain. First came the Alpine pioneers (without ropes in most cases), Whymper, Saussure in the 1700's, then the Everest pioneers (in the 20's) Mallory and all the rest. Then Royal Robbins, Chouinard (50's and 60's) the early Yosemite climbers with pitons, hand made bolts. Finally came the Sport routes with all the nice hangers/bolts/chains/that made it safer for those coming out of climbing gyms to continue and grow their climbing skills and enjoy the sport.
But it is the Tradationalist that had to have great knoledge to protect himself, know how to self rescue, rappel, perfect anchor building, know many knots, forces and equations to go up vertically on rock faces in some of the most beautiful mountains/crags in the world. They weren't on a climbing marathon, to climb as many Sport routes as they could in a day, but a beautiful journey to take it all in !

I'm sorry I must have fallen asleep. What was your point? And before you answer... *whispers* I don't really care...

andrew, fantastic day out there with you guys. your dad is the coolest and an inspiration for us old farts to keep cranking...

pigsteak wrote:andrew, fantastic day out there with you guys. your dad is the coolest and an inspiration for us old farts to keep cranking...

yes... I am very lucky. Funny to think that he is still coming off of shoulder surgery, so he is a little out of shape.


It was a great day, it was nice to climb with yall again and amazing routes.

Bill Johnson wrote:
..... I know many knots, forces and equations to go up vertically on rock faces....

Bill thanks for your sincere post. I thought for a minute you were a troll. But I checked out your website http://www.johnsonguidedtours.com/ .

I couldn't find any pricing on your website. How much are the equations? I don't make it to the gym as much as I used to and I feel like if I had the equations I could work on them from home, in the garage or something. Thanks!

Andrew wrote:

pigsteak wrote:andrew, fantastic day out there with you guys. your dad is the coolest and an inspiration for us old farts to keep cranking...

yes... I am very lucky. Funny to think that he is still coming off of shoulder surgery, so he is a little out of shape.


It was a great day, it was nice to climb with yall again and amazing routes.

Couldn't agree more with Pig. It was cool to meet your Dad and even more cool to see him pushing himself on some hard lines! Andrew, thanks for hanging the draws on High Heaven. Man that thing was tough! Oh, and thanks for noticing

pigsteak wrote: your dad is the coolest and an inspiration for us old farts to keep cranking...

Mike is the MAN! He talks half the smack and tries just as hard as his clone Andrew.