Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:18 pm
I had been waiting a long time to get him on that one, and he styled it. Well done Junior.
Page 14 of 37
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:28 pm
Has anyone ever done that crack coming out of the roof at th Chica Bonita, the Spice of Life? I'm thinking that maybe it isn't 10b, but there aren't many people who have done it (or at least sprayed about it).
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:28 pm
mama told me...? grand illusion?jrathfon wrote:try out the 7 at the far right, it's spicy for 7! and carnivorous is flaring fists, also good fun!
both are pretty good. next up for me at the beach is jaws, carnivorous and last but certainly not least....this
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:21 pm
I brought Anti to the Riker Ave. dumps. There is a house that stands alone, not far from where I took him. I took him there. Stripped him naked and tied his hands and feet and gagged him with a piece of dirty rag I picked out of the dump. Then I burned his clothes. Threw his shoes in the dump. Then I walked back and took the trolley to 59 St. at 2 A.M. and walked from there home. Next day about 2 P.M., I took tools, a good heavy cat-of-nine tails. Home made. Short handle. Cut one of my belts in half, slit these halves in six strips about 8 inches long. I whipped his bare behind till the blood ran from his legs. I cut off his ears – nose – slit his mouth from ear to ear. Gouged out his eyes. He was dead then. I stuck the knife in his belly and held my mouth to his body and drank his blood. I picked up four old potato sacks and gathered a pile of stones. Then I cut him up. I had a grip with me. I put his nose, ears and a few slices of his belly in the grip. Then I cut him through the middle of his body. Just below the belly button. Then through his legs about 2 inches below his behind. I put this in my grip with a lot of paper. I cut off the head – feet – arms – hands and the legs below the knee. This I put in sacks weighed with stones, tied the ends and threw them into the pools of slimy water you will see all along the road going to Raven Rock. I came home with my meat. I had the front of his body I liked best. His monkey and pee wees and a nice little fat behind to roast in the oven and eat. I made a stew out of his ears – nose – pieces of his face and belly. I put onions, carrots, turnips, celery, salt and pepper. It was good. Then I split the cheeks of his behind open, cut off his monkey and pee wees and washed them first. I put strips of bacon on each cheek of his behind and put them in the oven. Then I picked 4 onions and when the meat had roasted about 1/4 hour, I poured about a pint of water over it for gravy and put in the onions. At frequent intervals I basted his behind with a wooden spoon. So the meat would be nice and juicy. In about 2 hours, it was nice and brown, cooked through. I never ate any roast turkey that tasted half as good as his sweet fat little behind did. I ate every bit of the meat in about four days. His little monkey was a sweet as a nut, but his pee-wees I could not chew. Threw them in the toiletjrathfon wrote:so i apparently haven't proven myself worthy to have an opinion yet. sorry to intrude. i never forced my opinion on anyone, nor did i bash them (until the fixie comment). i was giving MY opinion. maybe one star per grade per the red was a hyperbole, but in my OPINION (since we like emphasizing in all caps) is that the stars are inflated, and well i expect more from a 4 star route, sorry if that offends your senses.
anticlimber i can take the ripples, i just think you come off as a teenager in his basement bedroom throwing shit around on the interwebs. i enjoy these discussions, hell i even enjoy your antics, in an argument i will continue to press upon my opinion that the stars are inflated, course i really don't mind, since it spreads around the hoopla that is the cragging around here.
i do yearn for the day i can climb those 14 five stars between ~12c and 14a at the lode, course i'd also love the day i could lead 12a trad, either way there'll be a lot of 5 stars to do.
my peni.... i mean my guidebook collection is bigger than yours... i actually am a fan of dick william's books, 3 stars, route descriptions (aka where to go), very little beta, colorful annecdotes, and G-X ratings, but in an area that has choss, moss, slime, dirt, and shitty routes, there aren't any three stars that really contain any of that. he also efffectively has a 5 star system anyways, because he has 3, 2, 1, stars, bolded, unbolded, and NOT RECOMMENDED, which would be the same as 5-0.
anticlimber if you must nit-pick my climbing style, i tried to on-site rebar, failed. TR'd two more times to dial it in. i'm not the god that you are, so i was tired after that. i was told we could get a TR onto riptide if we climbed that choss slab, it was still kind of fun, probably 2 stars. before even making the decision to TR riptide, i went over to check it out. i had been told the gear was odd and difficult to place. i looked up and saw numerous grass hocks, some mud, and a wasp nest throughout the route, so decided in my state i should just rap in, do about 10 minutes of cleaning, and TR it to end a great day. that's what i did, turned out i freed up two of the cam placements and two of the jams from mud and grass. i TR'd it and looked at the pockets, stuck my fingers in them, but didn't bring gear to "mock" it, does this hold up to your standards? (wait, i don't care) it was fun, probably should have left it for an on-site, but you know what, i was there to have fun, and i had fun, so i have no qualms about it, and now there aren't grass hocks in it.
moral of the story: i think the stars are inflated, i had fun this weekend, and yes, i do TR, anticlimber is infallible and does not TR.
now for a coffee stout.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:05 pm
ray....that was awesome, we should exchange journals sometime.
now, here's my bedroom tirade for you sir.
1) full on two paragraph posts in the online guide are lame. beta is lame. spraying about your day at the whole crag is lame. that's what this form is for. just make a comment and move on.
2) the shit talking goes on here, put on your arm floaties.
yellow) yes, you are allowed an opinion and a way to express it. so am i and all else here. if you don't expect backlash or BS, tough.
d) you might think it sucked, someone else didn't. you try and bsh them for their opinion but feel hated when yours is also thrown in the ring.
8) this is one of the greatest areas in the U>S period. its my home so i might get personal. i've and two stars with choss (what's choss?) climb better than the majority of 4 stars elsewhere. my opinion hope it doesn't scare you.
9) i TR, its easier to clean some things that way.
27) you climb for fun?? then why are you so pissed?? i climb for fun and i have fun, doesn't matter the climb or the **s, or what my friends think.
now, here's my bedroom tirade for you sir.
1) full on two paragraph posts in the online guide are lame. beta is lame. spraying about your day at the whole crag is lame. that's what this form is for. just make a comment and move on.
2) the shit talking goes on here, put on your arm floaties.
yellow) yes, you are allowed an opinion and a way to express it. so am i and all else here. if you don't expect backlash or BS, tough.
d) you might think it sucked, someone else didn't. you try and bsh them for their opinion but feel hated when yours is also thrown in the ring.
8) this is one of the greatest areas in the U>S period. its my home so i might get personal. i've and two stars with choss (what's choss?) climb better than the majority of 4 stars elsewhere. my opinion hope it doesn't scare you.
9) i TR, its easier to clean some things that way.
27) you climb for fun?? then why are you so pissed?? i climb for fun and i have fun, doesn't matter the climb or the **s, or what my friends think.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:55 pm
Nice and Nice!
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:12 am
mmmmmm.... bacon.....SCIN wrote:I brought Anti to the Riker Ave. dumps. There is a house that stands alone, not far from where I took him. I took him there. Stripped him naked and tied his hands and feet and gagged him with a piece of dirty rag I picked out of the dump. Then I burned his clothes. Threw his shoes in the dump. Then I walked back and took the trolley to 59 St. at 2 A.M. and walked from there home. Next day about 2 P.M., I took tools, a good heavy cat-of-nine tails. Home made. Short handle. Cut one of my belts in half, slit these halves in six strips about 8 inches long. I whipped his bare behind till the blood ran from his legs. I cut off his ears – nose – slit his mouth from ear to ear. Gouged out his eyes. He was dead then. I stuck the knife in his belly and held my mouth to his body and drank his blood. I picked up four old potato sacks and gathered a pile of stones. Then I cut him up. I had a grip with me. I put his nose, ears and a few slices of his belly in the grip. Then I cut him through the middle of his body. Just below the belly button. Then through his legs about 2 inches below his behind. I put this in my grip with a lot of paper. I cut off the head – feet – arms – hands and the legs below the knee. This I put in sacks weighed with stones, tied the ends and threw them into the pools of slimy water you will see all along the road going to Raven Rock. I came home with my meat. I had the front of his body I liked best. His monkey and pee wees and a nice little fat behind to roast in the oven and eat. I made a stew out of his ears – nose – pieces of his face and belly. I put onions, carrots, turnips, celery, salt and pepper. It was good. Then I split the cheeks of his behind open, cut off his monkey and pee wees and washed them first. I put strips of bacon on each cheek of his behind and put them in the oven. Then I picked 4 onions and when the meat had roasted about 1/4 hour, I poured about a pint of water over it for gravy and put in the onions. At frequent intervals I basted his behind with a wooden spoon. So the meat would be nice and juicy. In about 2 hours, it was nice and brown, cooked through. I never ate any roast turkey that tasted half as good as his sweet fat little behind did. I ate every bit of the meat in about four days. His little monkey was a sweet as a nut, but his pee-wees I could not chew. Threw them in the toiletjrathfon wrote:so i apparently haven't proven myself worthy to have an opinion yet. sorry to intrude. i never forced my opinion on anyone, nor did i bash them (until the fixie comment). i was giving MY opinion. maybe one star per grade per the red was a hyperbole, but in my OPINION (since we like emphasizing in all caps) is that the stars are inflated, and well i expect more from a 4 star route, sorry if that offends your senses.
anticlimber i can take the ripples, i just think you come off as a teenager in his basement bedroom throwing shit around on the interwebs. i enjoy these discussions, hell i even enjoy your antics, in an argument i will continue to press upon my opinion that the stars are inflated, course i really don't mind, since it spreads around the hoopla that is the cragging around here.
i do yearn for the day i can climb those 14 five stars between ~12c and 14a at the lode, course i'd also love the day i could lead 12a trad, either way there'll be a lot of 5 stars to do.
my peni.... i mean my guidebook collection is bigger than yours... i actually am a fan of dick william's books, 3 stars, route descriptions (aka where to go), very little beta, colorful annecdotes, and G-X ratings, but in an area that has choss, moss, slime, dirt, and shitty routes, there aren't any three stars that really contain any of that. he also efffectively has a 5 star system anyways, because he has 3, 2, 1, stars, bolded, unbolded, and NOT RECOMMENDED, which would be the same as 5-0.
anticlimber if you must nit-pick my climbing style, i tried to on-site rebar, failed. TR'd two more times to dial it in. i'm not the god that you are, so i was tired after that. i was told we could get a TR onto riptide if we climbed that choss slab, it was still kind of fun, probably 2 stars. before even making the decision to TR riptide, i went over to check it out. i had been told the gear was odd and difficult to place. i looked up and saw numerous grass hocks, some mud, and a wasp nest throughout the route, so decided in my state i should just rap in, do about 10 minutes of cleaning, and TR it to end a great day. that's what i did, turned out i freed up two of the cam placements and two of the jams from mud and grass. i TR'd it and looked at the pockets, stuck my fingers in them, but didn't bring gear to "mock" it, does this hold up to your standards? (wait, i don't care) it was fun, probably should have left it for an on-site, but you know what, i was there to have fun, and i had fun, so i have no qualms about it, and now there aren't grass hocks in it.
moral of the story: i think the stars are inflated, i had fun this weekend, and yes, i do TR, anticlimber is infallible and does not TR.
now for a coffee stout.
Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:39 pm
Not RRG spray but Rocksport in Louisville. Every wednesday, there is a climbing class from UL which comes in for a few hours. Somewhere during their TR belay class they were taught that any slack in the line is a sin resulting in completely new climbers topping out on fairly challenging routes providing some amazing spray:
After being pulled up a 5.10c with much resting and numerous falls, "that one wasn't too bad at all, pretty fun climb, let's try something harder." all said as the belayer breaths heavily from pulling with all their might to remove slack on each upward movement.
I, out of the kindness of my heart, volunteer to belay one of them and he was shocked to realize he couldn't climb a 5.11a past the first move.
Looking forward to this weekend, heading to the roadside on saturday to climb Andromeda and maybe psych myself up for Synchronicity for laughs.
After being pulled up a 5.10c with much resting and numerous falls, "that one wasn't too bad at all, pretty fun climb, let's try something harder." all said as the belayer breaths heavily from pulling with all their might to remove slack on each upward movement.
I, out of the kindness of my heart, volunteer to belay one of them and he was shocked to realize he couldn't climb a 5.11a past the first move.
Looking forward to this weekend, heading to the roadside on saturday to climb Andromeda and maybe psych myself up for Synchronicity for laughs.
Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:53 pm
been done by a few people. 10b is right on i thinktambo2 wrote:Has anyone ever done that crack coming out of the roof at th Chica Bonita, the Spice of Life? I'm thinking that maybe it isn't 10b, but there aren't many people who have done it (or at least sprayed about it).
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:19 am
Art and I did Andromeda Strain today. He did it second using about half the gear I did. I need to learn to climb ABOVE my pieces when i climb trad