Toker is very cool, but save some for the top! That's where the business is. If you can boulder the bottom of Fuzzy Undercling, the top is very positive. I'd add Air Ride Equipped if you are in the area, as well as Bathtub Mary and Brushfire Fairytales.
Enjoy!
Spraylord Wanted
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Barnacle Ben
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:23 pm
Oh yeah, totally forgot air ride. That is definitely tops on my list. Every time I make the drive down and pass a semi truck I think of that route. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
"But the motto was, never think you're that cool - you're still just climbing rocks...in the woods...with bugs...and everyone thinks you're crazy."
- Dave Graham
- Dave Graham
I have renamed my route after Michelle informed me that "Grin without a Cat" was less than honrable for such a worthy line. So the final name is "Malice".
After climbing with kek-san last Monday, I knew I needed to bring some of my better efforts today. scobro and big e were nice enough to follow me to choco "one more time"....
it's funny when you are climbing at your maximum effort...doesn't matter if that is 10a or 14a...it still feels hard for you. perhaps that is the draw of climbing..your best effort will be followed by more flailing the following weekend.
so Malice....I surpassed by best efforts by a mile...well, by about ten feet to be exact....three things stand between me and the send right now. 15 pounds, a wicked pump, and a bendy high step hand/foot match at the top.
I refuse to actually do any more aerobic activity or give up Mt. Dew, so number one is staying. The wicked pump can supposedly be lessened with a funky kneebar/scum that Ray swears is bomber. sadly, I can't even see the kneebar holds, let alone use it at this point. And for number three, I did start stretching in ernest 3 weeks ago. A well, today I found another halfway useable crimp for my left hand, so I may be able to make the move easier versus actually stretching...gotta love finding sequences instead of actually working harder.
one or two more crisp days, this thing is in the bag...maybe.
After climbing with kek-san last Monday, I knew I needed to bring some of my better efforts today. scobro and big e were nice enough to follow me to choco "one more time"....
it's funny when you are climbing at your maximum effort...doesn't matter if that is 10a or 14a...it still feels hard for you. perhaps that is the draw of climbing..your best effort will be followed by more flailing the following weekend.
so Malice....I surpassed by best efforts by a mile...well, by about ten feet to be exact....three things stand between me and the send right now. 15 pounds, a wicked pump, and a bendy high step hand/foot match at the top.
I refuse to actually do any more aerobic activity or give up Mt. Dew, so number one is staying. The wicked pump can supposedly be lessened with a funky kneebar/scum that Ray swears is bomber. sadly, I can't even see the kneebar holds, let alone use it at this point. And for number three, I did start stretching in ernest 3 weeks ago. A well, today I found another halfway useable crimp for my left hand, so I may be able to make the move easier versus actually stretching...gotta love finding sequences instead of actually working harder.
one or two more crisp days, this thing is in the bag...maybe.
Last edited by pigsteak on Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Twas a true grunt-fest today!
There was some serious pulling at one's limit today at the Chocolate Factory. I found myself on the edge also with a new sprad line (OK, a trad line with one bolt - keeps it from being R/X). Good people, good lines.
Don't worry Kipp, when the others have tired and moved on, I'll still have business there. But who will I drag when you've sent?
Again, great work man; it's cool to see it in your eyes.
Oh... Very cool name. Very cool.
There was some serious pulling at one's limit today at the Chocolate Factory. I found myself on the edge also with a new sprad line (OK, a trad line with one bolt - keeps it from being R/X). Good people, good lines.
Don't worry Kipp, when the others have tired and moved on, I'll still have business there. But who will I drag when you've sent?
Again, great work man; it's cool to see it in your eyes.
Oh... Very cool name. Very cool.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
i'm tellin ya pigsteak, you just need to come with a nicer lookin 'do! you just can't go around sending stuff lookin like you did today!
by the way, rjackson totally rocked out that new sprad line, i had a great view from afar! some serious choco grunting today indeed! nice work to all!
by the way, rjackson totally rocked out that new sprad line, i had a great view from afar! some serious choco grunting today indeed! nice work to all!
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
You gotta get on it! It's a sport route, right? It's got a bolt!
But since you asked...
Some cool moves down low lead to a chossy ledge (but a good stance) below a thin dihedral. It's all there, there just ain't much of it. There's three good areas for fingers, each successively getting smaller before it totally shuts down, leaving you wondering what to do and still 8 feet from your next piece. If you want the super-cool beta you'll have to get on it and I'll spray you down, but three or four grunts later and you've made a stance. Place a suspect piece (or two, or three) in a smallish chossy ledge before another set of cool moves to overcome a bulge to the right. Step through, find a great side pull and step up into a hand crack of sorts for another 30-ish feet of easier(?) climbing, and bomber gear the whole way to the anchors Clip the chains, enjoy the view (and the send).
It's uses a wide variety of style, with some pretty cool moves sprinkled about. Not recommended for the feint of heart...
But since you asked...
Some cool moves down low lead to a chossy ledge (but a good stance) below a thin dihedral. It's all there, there just ain't much of it. There's three good areas for fingers, each successively getting smaller before it totally shuts down, leaving you wondering what to do and still 8 feet from your next piece. If you want the super-cool beta you'll have to get on it and I'll spray you down, but three or four grunts later and you've made a stance. Place a suspect piece (or two, or three) in a smallish chossy ledge before another set of cool moves to overcome a bulge to the right. Step through, find a great side pull and step up into a hand crack of sorts for another 30-ish feet of easier(?) climbing, and bomber gear the whole way to the anchors Clip the chains, enjoy the view (and the send).
It's uses a wide variety of style, with some pretty cool moves sprinkled about. Not recommended for the feint of heart...
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
Spray for bcombs: He sent Resurrection today, in style, from what Andrew said.
Spray for Andrew: He yelled take today, in style, after reaching the rest jug on Snooker on one of his infamous redpoint goes... or is it not a redpoint go if you yell take at a place where you would obviously be resting if you were trying to redpoint? Your game of syntactical convenience might have been taken a bit too far this time, Andrew.
Spray for Andrew: He yelled take today, in style, after reaching the rest jug on Snooker on one of his infamous redpoint goes... or is it not a redpoint go if you yell take at a place where you would obviously be resting if you were trying to redpoint? Your game of syntactical convenience might have been taken a bit too far this time, Andrew.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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(Emails > PMs)
