RRC Archives

Huggybone wrote:Meta-comment:

Q: Why all the bashing, making up lies, etc..?

A: So that you can pretend it can never happen to you.

Thank you, Dr. Freud. A lot of the disapproval could also come from the sheer volume of bad belaying and bad habits we see at the crag day in and day out.... it's amazing to me there aren't more accidents, although the Red already has well more than its share. I've personally participated in enough rescues over the past 17 or so years and would prefer to address the root of these problems rather than continue to clean up afterwards and help people find excuses for screwing up. Bottom line--belayer screws up, climber falls at exactly that moment and hits the ground. It's simple cause and effect--be careful out there, both belaying and choosing who belays you.

pigsteak wrote:................. doube checking each other...............

I think you misspelled that, its doob checking each other, ya know, like a safety meeting

dustonian wrote:

Huggybone wrote:Meta-comment:

Q: Why all the bashing, making up lies, etc..?

A: So that you can pretend it can never happen to you.

Thank you, Dr. Freud. A lot of the disapproval could also come from the sheer volume of bad belaying and bad habits we see at the crag day in and day out.... it's amazing to me there aren't more accidents, although the Red already has well more than its share. I've personally participated in enough rescues over the past 17 or so years and would prefer to address the root of these problems rather than continue to clean up afterwards and help people find excuses for screwing up. Bottom line--belayer screws up, climber falls at exactly that moment and hits the ground. It's simple cause and effect--be careful out there, both belaying and choosing who belays you.

think you can make it to 10 pages?

(rhetorical question--don't feel that a response is required, as it is not)

toad857 wrote:

dustonian wrote:

Huggybone wrote:Meta-comment:

Q: Why all the bashing, making up lies, etc..?

A: So that you can pretend it can never happen to you.

Thank you, Dr. Freud. A lot of the disapproval could also come from the sheer volume of bad belaying and bad habits we see at the crag day in and day out.... it's amazing to me there aren't more accidents, although the Red already has well more than its share. I've personally participated in enough rescues over the past 17 or so years and would prefer to address the root of these problems rather than continue to clean up afterwards and help people find excuses for screwing up. Bottom line--belayer screws up, climber falls at exactly that moment and hits the ground. It's simple cause and effect--be careful out there, both belaying and choosing who belays you.

think you can make it to 10 pages?

(rhetorical question--don't feel that a response is required, as it is not)

Actually, a response is required:

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It's not a perfect storm or extrordinary when a person falls right when the belayer is holding the cam down and feeding slack. This is the death zone with a GRI GRI. If you don't know that, you shouldn't be belaying with one. You have to be able to react quickly when this happens and know that if you don't, you will deck somebody. I have personally witnessed this exact thing 1/2 a dozen times and have heard of countless more. Every time... there is this bewilderment about how the timing had to be perfect for such an unusual thing to happen. It is not unusual--and people new to the GRI GRI experience this frequently. Please tell anyone training on a GRI GRI about the death zone and to LET GO of that cam and grab the rope when the climber falls (even just letting go alone is better than holding the cam down).

steep4me wrote:It's not a perfect storm or extrordinary when a person falls right when the belayer is holding the cam down and feeding slack. This is the death zone with a GRI GRI. If you don't know that, you shouldn't be belaying with one. You have to be able to react quickly when this happens and know that if you don't, you will deck somebody. I have personally witnessed this exact thing 1/2 a dozen times and have heard of countless more. Every time... there is this bewilderment about how the timing had to be perfect for such an unusual thing to happen. It is not unusual--and people new to the GRI GRI experience this frequently. Please tell anyone training on a GRI GRI about the death zone and to LET GO of that cam and grab the rope when the climber falls (even just letting go alone is better than holding the cam down).

wrong.lease do not teach or use a gri gri yourself.

I think it's really funny that all of you have the arrogance, or maybe it's the ignorance, to look down your nose at these two and claim to have never made a mistake. I would like all of you to look back into your "vast years of experience" and honestly tell me that you have NEVER made a mistake. I find that impossible to believe. It pains me to see, what is supposed to be such a "tight knit community", sitting up on your respective soapboxes, passing judgement and bitching about what SOMEONE ELSE DID. and criticizing people who are already grieving, instead of showing compassion to them...like a community. And maybe even using their story as a reminder that no matter how many years of experience you have, shit happens. Instead, you're all just using this as an opportunity to shout your opinion when it was never asked for. This isn't about whether they were wrong or right, and it's not a blame game. I would hope that if i were in their shoes, the climbing community wouldn't turn its back on me like you have all done to them. -S&T

[quote="rockjunky45"]..... This isn't about whether they were wrong or right, and it's not a blame game. I would hope that if i were in their shoes, the climbing community wouldn't turn its back on me like you have all done to them. -S&T[/quote]

But it is about right and wrong and educating the community on shoddy belay practices.

Oh yeah, rest assured, if you screw up the "community" will turn on you in a heartbeat