Spraylord Wanted

Post by **RRO** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:48 pm

i would vote for waxing, nothing against keksa. just sounds like the only logical thing to do.

actually touched stone again, it def does not suck.........

Post by **rjackson** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:20 pm

Kek-san - Was an inspiring burn, always great to watch when someone is climbing at their limit.

Pigsteak - Let me know which clip you want me to short-rope him on next time.

Personally - Nothing to spray about except some more lichen-free rock and I was outside on a gorgeous day with good people. Guess it's time to put the brush down and start climbing.

Post by **kek-san** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:51 pm

I've got alot of hair, waxing would definitely slow me down.

Post by **Wes** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:52 am

I top-roped, hang-dogged a really cool 5.10 today. Came down with a grin, which is probably the first time that has happened in years. Climbed two days this week, more the the last six months. Might have to give this whole rock climbing thing another try...

Have a route I put anchors on last winter that I need to send by the end of this winter, probably mid 12'sh, techy, slab/arete thing. Should be pretty cool...

Post by **tania** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:58 am

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:21 am

go wes..I know the route you speak of, and it does indeed look like classic material.

glad to hear of the smile on the rock.

Post by **pawilkes** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:28 am

maybe josie's 5.7 next to it can be a good mid point on the way to sending it

Post by **Wes** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:39 am

pawilkes wrote:maybe josie's 5.7 next to it can be a good mid point on the way to sending it

Heh, I suck at rating new routes from the ground. But, in my defense, that one is one jug from 5.9. Of course, this might mean that kung fu panda is like mid 5.13, if we go by how far off I usually am...

Post by **Barnacle Ben** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:59 pm

So I'm a little overdue for an update. My own mighty goal right now is to send 11a. Basically, it's just something I'd like to do, not really gearing all my efforts towards it.

Got on Jungle trundler two weeks ago as we happened to be at bruise brothers and no one was on it. There are a few powerful crimpy moves to the first bolt. I managed to pull them and fell pulling up past the first bolt. The rest of it was real balancy. The two crack sections are the most fun. I can't remember what I did in the higher crack section on my first go - I think I just sidepulled up it. But the second time around I almost instinctively did a few finger stacks. It was pretty cool doing that without even really thinking about or setting out to do it, but it was the most effective. After that, one more thin section where you're standing on a ledge, but I found out that I am JUST tall enough to reach to the top of the next ledge, which is super positive, so I can skip a thin move or two.

Ended up two-hanging it on my second go. I'm pretty sure if I come back fresh for the first crimpy part, I can get this thing done. The rest of it was just a matter of figuring out the moves.

Really though, my current goal is to get on as many good 10's as I can. 10c, for whatever reason, seems to be a magic number for high quality routes. Did Pre-emptive strike last weekend, which had a crimpy start that was very similar to Jungle Trundler. It was powerful for me, but I pulled all the moves no problem, so that built up some confidence for me. Awesome route too.

Some other 11a's I'm planning on trying are: whip-stocking, 100 years of solitude (which I've been on once), toker, bathtub mary, super dario, armed insurrection, and hot drama teacher. Anyone feel free to throw out any good (or soft...) 11a's.

Post by **pawilkes** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:41 pm

Hot drama Teacher is a pretty stout 11a, fyi. I'd add Johnny B. Good and Toker.