The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by **rocker_delux** » Sat May 23, 2009 4:07 pm

pawilkes wrote:
Meadows wrote:
Saxman wrote:
From a guy at Torrent who was going to let his friend top rope through the anchors on Wadcutter. Same guy who didn't put draws on the anchors of Centerfire. Pretty sad for someone who has been climbing for 10 years.
Doesn't CF have leaver biners?
it does. he was top roping thru the biners. you happen to know this mysterious someone Meadows, he and I happen to share first names. are you surprised by his actions? i'm not

I see people doing that shit every time I go climbing. I try to be nice and explain to them about rappelling, usually with some kind of muffled "I know but..." - some people just don't get it. And then you check some of the anchors out and they are wearing thin. Mebbe we should just start taking a wrench and a couple screw links when we clean.

Post by **Shamis** » Sat May 23, 2009 5:44 pm

A lot of locals lower off of the anchors under the premise that they'll replace them when they wear out.

Post by **Saxman** » Sat May 23, 2009 6:10 pm

Don't all sporties lower?

Post by **tbwilsonky** » Sun May 24, 2009 3:24 am

Saxman wrote:Don't all sporties lower?

i hope so. if not, i have a really awkward back tattoo.

speaking of lowering... i got 'FYI'd' today by someone explaining to me how lowering when cleaning is not only against muir valley policy but also involves a moral fail resulting in a permanent imbalance in the time-space continuum. or at least i imagine that's how the very loud - and not the least bit smug - finger-wagging played out. i don't know for sure; i had a rage blackout about .0001 seconds after being wagged.

all i remember is envisioning the large box of quicklinks in my garage and then..... darkness.

when i woke up i started to make a really awkward argument about relative impact (foot shuffling/soil erosion x watershed impact + fish evolution - lung capacity =.........), but thought it best to vent here where no one can hear me.

-t

Post by **weber** » Sun May 24, 2009 11:14 pm

tbwilsonky wrote:
speaking of lowering... i got 'FYI'd' today by someone explaining to me how lowering when cleaning is not only against muir valley policy but also involves a moral fail resulting in a permanent imbalance in the time-space continuum. or at least i imagine that's how the very loud - and not the least bit smug - finger-wagging played out. i don't know for sure; i had a rage blackout about .0001 seconds after being wagged.

all i remember is envisioning the large box of quicklinks in my garage and then..... darkness.

when i woke up i started to make a really awkward argument about relative impact (foot shuffling/soil erosion x watershed impact + fish evolution - lung capacity =.........), but thought it best to vent here where no one can hear me.

-t

I'm sorry, Tom, that someone took it upon themselves to chastise about MV policy. Our policy is that you should use whatever method you are comfortable with to return safely to the ground. If that means lowering through the fixed anchors - fine. Especially on extremely overhung routes (Sanctuary, Surf, Solarium.)

We do prefer that climbers rappel off after cleaning as this significantly reduces wear on the hardware. We've had to replace a lot of it lately. Developers say they'll return someday to replace worn stuff, but few ever do.

On a related subject, we do ask that climbers not top rope through the fixed anchors for obvious reasons.

Rick

Post by **jenH** » Mon May 25, 2009 1:39 am

1. I got to witness (at the gym) this girl deck from third clip b/c she had way too much slack out and her belayer standing about 15 feet away from the wall. Yikes!

2. Oh, and at Bruise Brothers, couple climbing one of the short little 5.7s, and belayer standing 15 feet from wall, climber with just first draw in, having trouble, falling multiple times, belayer getting pulled into the wall, climber hitting the ground, repeatedly. Their fix, belayer backs up another 5 feet from wall to anchor himself to a tree. ( I was only around b/c I was setting up an easy route for a friend recovering from injury, ... through my own draws at the anchors

)

3. Guy lowering friend from Ro too fast, climber yelling slow down... belayer locks off and belayer gets lifted way up in air and climber continues to lower quickly and luckily isn't hurt, as his belayer is flying up in the air. Must have been a big weight discrepancy.

Agh!

Post by **michaelarmand** » Mon May 25, 2009 3:10 am

We were at sky bridge Saturday and I caught a gumby in our group pooping in plain sight about 30 ft from the wall. He is now known as "fist crack"

Post by **toad857** » Mon May 25, 2009 3:32 pm

michaelarmand wrote:We were at sky bridge Saturday and I caught a gumby in our group pooping in plain sight about 30 ft from the wall. He is now known as "fist crack"

gotta poop somewhere

Post by **Rollo** » Mon May 25, 2009 4:30 pm

i poop one foot left of the trail

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed May 27, 2009 8:46 pm

went to the New. went to a trad crag (Junkyard)...two huge groups (total of at least 15 people) had top ropes (8-10 ropes between the two groups)) hung on virtually every classic line at the crag...problem was, less than half of the ropes were being climbed on at any one time. I finally asked and pulled a rope, and then had to re-hang their line when finished. seems to me that standard courtesy for a large group would dictate not hanging ropes on every classic at the crag.