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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:01 pm
by 512OW
Actually, I just did a search for "oldschool" 5.8's.

Some of the grades are definitely wrong.

Good Times 5.8+.... more like 8-, and thats pushin it.
Muscle Shoals 5.8+..... no harder than 5.7 on a humid day in tennis shoes
Snake 5.8???.... are you kidding?
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8.... uh, what? 5.7 maybe. If you carry a rack meant for El Cap, wear Chuck Taylors, and do it blindfolded.


And thats just the beginning...

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:36 pm
by RRO
you have just plain out and out lost your mind mr 52TR. you cannot in anyway possible compare the above routes and their difficulty to say , please dont feed the triceritops, audie, face up to the crack, or the slabs at roadside and they are the same grades. i aint getting into the whole sport and trad debate that has played out year after year, gigabyte after byte. but sir, you cannot with a straight face compare those routes to sport routes of the same grade in this area. as far as harder routes. different trades, different skills, nothing better, nothing worse... but they are different. kinda like blue and whire collar work.

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:43 pm
by 512OW
I can and will. They all feel the same to me.

Sorry.

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:06 pm
by RRO
must be the new ropes.........

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:18 pm
by Andrew
Hahahahahaha new ropes. I get it. Zing.

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:22 pm
by 512OW
Hell no. I'm not climbin any of that choss on my new ropes.

Its because I'm short, and climbing is easier for short people.

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 10:49 pm
by Andrew
^truth again.

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:20 pm
by Horatio Felacio
512OW wrote:Actually, I just did a search for "oldschool" 5.8's.

Some of the grades are definitely wrong.

Good Times 5.8+.... more like 8-, and thats pushin it.
Muscle Shoals 5.8+..... no harder than 5.7 on a humid day in tennis shoes
Snake 5.8???.... are you kidding?
Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8.... uh, what? 5.7 maybe. If you carry a rack meant for El Cap, wear Chuck Taylors, and do it blindfolded.


And thats just the beginning...
can you actually distinguish 5.8+ from 5.8- or 5.7+? impressive. i have hard enough time distinguishing between whole number grades sometimes...even between 5.10's and 5.11's and even some 5.11's and 5.12's and even some 5.12's and 5.13's.

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:37 pm
by Horatio Felacio
i'd also like to weigh in on the point of this thread. the jerries are right. they deserve credit for the all the routes 5.0 and up. they also need extra points for trad routes. it is a definite fact that trad climbing is WAY harder than sport climbing...placing gear, mental focus, reading the routes correctly to make them safe, etc. let's take any trad climb...for example snotrocket...i'd bet money that any 5.12+ climber gets their head kicked in by that route. it takes an extreme amount of focus, technique, and dedication to send that thing...even on toprope. by no means is any ordinary person going to send that route (by ordinary, i mean an average human being, of which all should be able to climb most 5.12+ routes)...only highly skilled professionals...maybe even demi-gods by mere mortal standards. the pure strength alone required for sending that route is above and beyond the requisite skills of almost anyone in the universe. just think, a person that can send that route must be a model for any human being wanting to achieve perfection. they must not only be in extreme physical shape, but also be able to endure any physical condition, make the ladies swoon with adoration and lust, and must also sustain a superior intellect compared to his common man. back to the point, ray, all climbs deserve points (based on an exponential scale, not linear as is now the case). trad climbs in particular deserve, at the very least, 1/3 more of the total points...also increasing exponentially. that is all.

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:48 am
by the lurkist
I heard a prerequisite for even tying in for Snotrocket is being able to make chicks org by voice command.