RRC Archives

Yeah, I think chalk on the holds definitely not the same things as tick marks. Tick marks are like a crutch (or aid) and it takes away from much of the experience for the next climber. It makes it feel more like a gym route with colored tape. I don't want to know where all of the sweet spots are on my onsight attempt. It will ruin the experience by dumbing down the route and eliminating the searching. Of course a route will feel much easier after it has been "wired" and tick marked. The chalk on the holds doesn't always show the "sweet spot" and it is not always obvious from below. Personally I think it is much more fun to find the good holds for myself (on the first go)... I guess I just have different ethical standards.

I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all.

Well, since Pigsteak is not here, then I will make a new ruling... I think that if you tick mark a route then you should automatically lower the difficulty by at least one letter grade since finding all of the right holds (on your first attempt) is part of it.

dhoyne wrote:I like climbing after it rains -- no chalk at all.

Maybe on some of the slabs, but not on anything very steep. You can read all kinds of hold beta by where the chalk is. Sidepulls, underclimbing, thumb catches all show up in the chalk patterens.

Less talk, more pictures.

Ever noticed that many times when you get to a crux that often the worst holds have the most chalk? Or all of the holds will have chalk? Or people will experiment with about 3 or 4 different grips before they decide. And then sometimes the best holds don't have any chalk on them. Ya never really know, but with the tick marks, well, that's different because then you do know.

And since I said that I'll back it up with action. Dial up users are warned:

Me in South Mountain Park, Phoenix AZ, in Janurary.


Dean on the 3 pocket problem at Clack


sirtoots on a fun slab at Clack


Hopefully I'll have more next week.

if a problem comes along
you must tick it
if your onsight skills aren't strong
you must tick it

so tick it
tick it good

go upward
get it sent

lower off
after you send it

you brush it
brush it good

on topic:


Michael Tryon (where are you?) on Roadside


Chocolate Waterfall... yummy


Me on Foxfire


Steve at Stone Mt.


Sometimes it's good to get up early - J-Tree January 2003


me on the Lost Coast, northern Cali

first time on andromeda strain i noticed that the hand jams were ticked.. the hand jams were ticked!!! that's going a bit far..

by the way, great pics, jb. the headless climber is particularly inspiring

I just love it when I GIANT jug, that you couldn't miss if you were blind, has a 4 inch scrape for a tic mark. Who needs something that big?