Spraylord Wanted
dude, I am just bitter because I had no shot at that route.pawilkes wrote:you have to stick all the moves...and clip the anchors lest pigsteak starts to give you crap about it 6 months later.
but be of good cheer as I have moved into the "one and done" clipping the chains to score. no chain clippage, no score.
have a great weekend everyone!
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Caribe and I went out to the Oasis Sunday took care of Finnegan's Ladder and Paddy O'Keefe's Walking Shoes, routes that shut me down pretty bad a year and a half ago. Caribe flashed Finnegan's Ladder using completely different beta than me and sorted out the crux of Paddy O'Keefe's beautifully.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
Pigsteak and I spent a romantic afternoon working on his proj. at Choco. We both made progress. But I think I get the prize for the day. It went from "I might be able to do most of the moves in sequence, but I will never be able to get the hard clip" to "I will send this." Completely based on the following experience.
The afternoon temps were dropping nicely and the route was fully in the shade. My previous burn showed me that, not only was the "the hard clip" doable, but not all that hard if the body position was correct. On my previous burn I had also sorted out all of the low beta that I had seemed to totally forget the first burn. So other than feeling a bit tired I felt ready to "give it hell." I roped in, and got on.
Cruised through the low stuff. Forced myself to clip the fourth high instead of off the XX hold. Cruised through the next few moves and on into "the hard clip."
Moved from the right pinch-sloper and Left crimp to the manky high pinch pocket. Set my right foot and dropped the knee. Cool and casual, I clipped. Psyched from getting the clip I moved left into the rib.
Bumped left and moved up. I was definitely working for it, but feeling good. No pump, just working hard. Clipped left from the perhaps the coolest right hand full body layback. And moved on.
Three moves through the small stuff and slopers to the pocket and clip. Shake from the pocket, right rail and a semi left knee bar (Ray, I just couldn't get the right knee bar to work here), but the meter was running out fast so I moved on.
Up to the right flat, It is really on me now and I have to match to move. Ok keep moving, keep breathing. Up left, oh no not enough juice to get the thumb in position, keep moving. Oh crap, I am totally gassed, "Take!" Inner dialogue, "No, damn it!, fall trying." Keep moving. Got the right into the finger pocket and weight it. Attempt to move the right foot and... "wheee, lots o air."
So from "I can't even get close on this" to one hung in a few burns. New highpoint, and new knowledge that I am one move from getting this. It is going to be one Helluva season.
The afternoon temps were dropping nicely and the route was fully in the shade. My previous burn showed me that, not only was the "the hard clip" doable, but not all that hard if the body position was correct. On my previous burn I had also sorted out all of the low beta that I had seemed to totally forget the first burn. So other than feeling a bit tired I felt ready to "give it hell." I roped in, and got on.
Cruised through the low stuff. Forced myself to clip the fourth high instead of off the XX hold. Cruised through the next few moves and on into "the hard clip."
Moved from the right pinch-sloper and Left crimp to the manky high pinch pocket. Set my right foot and dropped the knee. Cool and casual, I clipped. Psyched from getting the clip I moved left into the rib.
Bumped left and moved up. I was definitely working for it, but feeling good. No pump, just working hard. Clipped left from the perhaps the coolest right hand full body layback. And moved on.
Three moves through the small stuff and slopers to the pocket and clip. Shake from the pocket, right rail and a semi left knee bar (Ray, I just couldn't get the right knee bar to work here), but the meter was running out fast so I moved on.
Up to the right flat, It is really on me now and I have to match to move. Ok keep moving, keep breathing. Up left, oh no not enough juice to get the thumb in position, keep moving. Oh crap, I am totally gassed, "Take!" Inner dialogue, "No, damn it!, fall trying." Keep moving. Got the right into the finger pocket and weight it. Attempt to move the right foot and... "wheee, lots o air."
So from "I can't even get close on this" to one hung in a few burns. New highpoint, and new knowledge that I am one move from getting this. It is going to be one Helluva season.
"Dying?" Man, that's the last thing I want to do. - overheard
