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Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:26 pm
by caribe
DriskellHR wrote: however, the Terry Schivo thing was kinda tastless man......
Many times i see gumbies at the crag worrying about the wrong thing. For example dude comes to crag with the helmet, puts it on to climb and takes it off after he is done. Then he gets hit with a rock. You are 100x more likely to get hit with a rock if you don't climb with the rope behind your leg. That is another thing, wear a helmet while climbing, think you are safe, but climb with the rope behind your leg or with no sense about body position relative to rope and rock features and you end up breaking your neck.
In Mexico they have a saying: "El pendejo trabaja doble." which roughly translates to the gumby works twice as hard.
BTW: if you want to get into a fight go to Tijuana on a Friday night at some cantina in the barrio and call a vato or some working stiff a pendejo.
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:26 pm
by pigsteak
how do you climb lap 1354 AFTER lap 1373?
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:35 pm
by 512OW
caribe wrote: You are 100x more likely to get hit with a rock if you don't climb with the rope behind your leg.
I think your brain works at a speed that your fingers can't handle.
HUH????
I'm lost.
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:37 pm
by ahab
i think what caribe was trying to say was that he throws rocks at gumbys climbing w/o the rope behind their leg.
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:41 pm
by 512OW
I witnessed a guy at the gym telling his newbie friend that you never want your leg between the rope and the wall when there is a clipped draw above you. ONLY when you're above your last draw.
I love to see gumby carnage in the gym... especially the loud obnoxious ones with all the shit dangling off their harness while they climb. Those are the same guys who spew beta at their friends, then sketch their way up the same 5.9.
I LOVE CLIMBING!!!!!
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:16 pm
by jordancolburn
512OW wrote:the loud obnoxious ones with all the shit dangling off their harness while they climb.
I understand that being a gumby trademark in the gym (honestly, an atc...is that neccesary) , but outside I don't understand it as much. Some of the people I climb with have poked fun at me for taking all my draws on a lead, but when something takes 9 draws, I only have twelve, why not just take the rest. If the weight of three draws keeps me from sending, i probably don't need to be on that route (plus you never know when you're going to suddenly go retarded and drop something).
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:19 pm
by 512OW
I always carry too many draws.
When the people I "coach" ask "How many bolts?", my stock answer is "12".
Of course, on hard sends with the draws prehung, I go as far as plucking my eyebrows to reduce weight.
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:22 pm
by bcombs
I routinely go poop just before getting on the project of the day. That extra 8 ounces might be the difference between the glory of the send or the agony of defeat.
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:46 pm
by pigsteak
the glory is in the poop....ask KD.
Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:19 pm
by rhunt
If you're with pigsteak or I, you'll carry at least one draw on your redpoint burn so that you can go directly in and brush holds while you're resting.