RRC Archives

Toy wrote: Sometimes, a great line simply runs out of holds.

What "great" line simply runs out of holds?

Toy wrote:The absence of a finishing jug is not a valid justification for leaving that line.

I didn't say Chainsaw shouldn't have been bolted I just thought it could have been bolted differently to raise the quality.

Toy wrote: You've often mentioned how arbitrary the rules of climbing are. Mostly I agree, but it doesn't get much more arbitrary than requiring a route to finish on a jug.

Arbitrary-er??? Come on Toy, nobody is suggesting that you bolt shit on the wall. I am just saying if the crux drifts from the rock climbing to how the heck am I supposed to clip the anchors. Then something is lost, not gained. I realize that you bolt routes and it is not always an easy task. Sure, some might second guess your decisions but for the most part people appreciate bolters efforts.

amarillo sunset??? omg, I am completely hurt....lol..

actually OW, if you read the online guide, you would know I designed this route with you in mind. after the jacked two bolt anchor, I also installed a higher single bolt thru some solid 5.12 climbing...I couldn't decide which was more important to appease...the "keep the line consisten " crowd, or the "end on a jug" crowd...with amarillo, I decided to piss of both, cause I could.

in the case of amarillo. it is not a case of the bolter not going far enough with the line....quite the opposite..the line should have stopped at the last bolt.

that being said, since I bolted it and clipping one anchor is acceptable to all, I now deem the last single bolt before the chains to be the official end of amarillo sunset. you clip that final single bolt, and you are allowed to mark your tick list. if you climb thru the two bolt anchor and up to the final solitary bolt above, you have now climbed the extension known as "tequila sunrise"...

ray, please make the corrections in the next edition of the guidebook.

btw, OW, all climbing is all good....indoors is climbing, not just training. that is like saying running on a treadmill is not running, or playing football on astro turf is not...aw, never mind. that just makes us elitist.

For all that bolt climbs, thank you. You guys are doing an outstanding job. Just like I can't tell a painter what to paint I would never try to tell you how, or what to bolt. You go ahead bolt and keep bolting and I will keep enjoying all the climbs. I know many times you chose a particular place to bolt because if where you found solid rock behind it and I am sure that you are placing all the bolts in the very best place you are able to do. Again, thank you.

I agree about the last bolt on Amarillo... though I did clip BOTH anchors on my onsight.

Ha.

tutu...I botched the anchors on amarillo, but tell no one....

please climb at curbside for a real testament of my ability to put up routes of unmeasurable greatness.

Yea, I've now sent Amarillo Sunset! Thanks Pigsteak!

no worries bcombs..I also would like to petition ray that you have climbed mello yellow, and should garner extra points for cleaning the route.

Hehe, I climbed it again later with HeavyC. It withstood the both of us yarding on it so I'm guessing its at least safer than before. I will take the points though, thanks!

unmeasurable chossness.

tutugirl wrote:For all that bolt climbs, thank you. You guys are doing an outstanding job. Just like I can't tell a painter what to paint I would never try to tell you how, or what to bolt. You go ahead bolt and keep bolting and I will keep enjoying all the climbs. I know many times you chose a particular place to bolt because if where you found solid rock behind it and I am sure that you are placing all the bolts in the very best place you are able to do. Again, thank you.

I agree. I thank all the equippers as well, but I can't imagine going through life without criticism of my work.

Tutu.... your cakes are amazing (I'm especially a fan of fondant cakes), but I'm sure they got that way by not only self criticism, but hearing what others had to say, whether directly to you, or about cakes in general.

Criticism is tough to take, for sure, but its for the best.