RRC Archives

I caught Hugh when the bolt came out on Twinkie. When it pulled, it was like the rock exploded outward. He went a long way. When the ride was over, I lowered him and there, on the rope in front of him, was the quickdraw with the hanger and the bolt still intact. It had been placed in a relatively small portion of rock, in sort of a septum between pockets. I'm not aware of any bolt ever shearing off in the Red, although, I'm sure it's just a matter of time at some of the really old places if nothing is done.

Spragwa; I respect the hell out of Hugh. He is intellectually honest enough to admit he is ignorant about which bolts are still bomber. He is hoping to err on the side of caution in removing the bolts. I am not claiming I know anything anybody else doesn't. I just want us to stay focused. Lets keep the terror alert to orange and not raise it to red.

Lets all get together and get the job done up there but lets also protect access. Who wants to have to drink Tang(R) for the rest of their lives instead of Orange Juice

Again, I agree... a rusted bolt shearing due to whip force is just a matter of time. My point is lets not panic. Lets leave the old school intact and fix the routes for the next generation.

Don't any of you have a problem with Hugh going out to pull the classics at FRC?

caribe wrote: Don't any of you have a problem with Hugh going out to pull the classics at FRC?

Not even a small one. I would trust him to make the right choice for sure. Hell, I would even be OK with a voluntary closure of the whole crag. But, I have done all the routes there that are within my current ability, so no rush for me to get back out there till next fall.

ashtray wrote: i had a rusty nut explode on me early this summer

I didn't know you liked red heads, glad your alive though

maybe a voluntary closure would spur us as a community onto quick action.

I've never been to FRC, but how did we go from the meer suggestion and a poll to the original equippers going out and removing hangers from the entire crag? I'm all for safety but just because we speak it, does that make it so?

caribe wrote: I just want us to stay focused. Lets keep the terror alert to orange and not raise it to red.

Have we learned nothing since 9-11? We all function better when we are terrified and depressed. It makes our principal duty/sacrifice (shopping) so much more rewarding.

bcombs wrote:I've never been to FRC, but how did we go from the meer suggestion and a poll to the original equippers going out and removing hangers from the entire crag? I'm all for safety but just because we speak it, does that make it so?

Yeah, I think removing hangers is a bit extreme, unless they really are ready to fail any minute. We should just get out there to replace them within the next 2 months.

I don't have a drill, I have never placed a bolt, hung hangers, and I have absolutly no idea how to do so, therefore, my opinion is about as worthless as a blowjob from an ugly hooker whose mouth is wired shut. However, should those of you who have graciously given up your time and money so that I can climb on the weekends decide to replace bolts/anchors, let me know and I would be honored to help.