My prediction for 2008...

Access, Rehab Projects, Derbyfests and more...

What crag/area will see a catastrophic bolt failure?

Funk Rock City
15
30%
Muir
3
6%
PMRP (newer route)
1
2%
PMRP (older route)
1
2%
Motherlode
3
6%
Long Wall
0
No votes
Pebble beach
1
2%
Pistol Ridge
1
2%
Other
6
12%
None will fail
19
38%
 
Total votes: 50

Lander
Posts: 210
Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2007 2:26 pm

Post by Lander »

I caught Hugh when the bolt came out on Twinkie. When it pulled, it was like the rock exploded outward. He went a long way. When the ride was over, I lowered him and there, on the rope in front of him, was the quickdraw with the hanger and the bolt still intact. It had been placed in a relatively small portion of rock, in sort of a septum between pockets. I'm not aware of any bolt ever shearing off in the Red, although, I'm sure it's just a matter of time at some of the really old places if nothing is done.
"Doin' right aint got no end." - CRLT
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caribe
Posts: 2447
Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 1:37 am

Post by caribe »

Spragwa; I respect the hell out of Hugh. He is intellectually honest enough to admit he is ignorant about which bolts are still bomber. He is hoping to err on the side of caution in removing the bolts. I am not claiming I know anything anybody else doesn't. I just want us to stay focused. Lets keep the terror alert to orange and not raise it to red.

Lets all get together and get the job done up there but lets also protect access. Who wants to have to drink Tang(R) for the rest of their lives instead of Orange Juice :?:
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caribe
Posts: 2447
Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 1:37 am

Post by caribe »

Again, I agree... a rusted bolt shearing due to whip force is just a matter of time. My point is lets not panic. Lets leave the old school intact and fix the routes for the next generation.

Don't any of you have a problem with Hugh going out to pull the classics at FRC?
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

caribe wrote: Don't any of you have a problem with Hugh going out to pull the classics at FRC?
Not even a small one. I would trust him to make the right choice for sure. Hell, I would even be OK with a voluntary closure of the whole crag. But, I have done all the routes there that are within my current ability, so no rush for me to get back out there till next fall.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

ashtray wrote: i had a rusty nut explode on me early this summer
I didn't know you liked red heads, glad your alive though
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

maybe a voluntary closure would spur us as a community onto quick action.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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bcombs
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Post by bcombs »

I've never been to FRC, but how did we go from the meer suggestion and a poll to the original equippers going out and removing hangers from the entire crag? I'm all for safety but just because we speak it, does that make it so?
ashtray
Posts: 500
Joined: Tue May 30, 2006 3:37 pm

Post by ashtray »

caribe wrote: I just want us to stay focused. Lets keep the terror alert to orange and not raise it to red.
Have we learned nothing since 9-11? We all function better when we are terrified and depressed. It makes our principal duty/sacrifice (shopping) so much more rewarding.
Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Post by Shamis »

bcombs wrote:I've never been to FRC, but how did we go from the meer suggestion and a poll to the original equippers going out and removing hangers from the entire crag? I'm all for safety but just because we speak it, does that make it so?
Yeah, I think removing hangers is a bit extreme, unless they really are ready to fail any minute. We should just get out there to replace them within the next 2 months.
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krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

I don't have a drill, I have never placed a bolt, hung hangers, and I have absolutly no idea how to do so, therefore, my opinion is about as worthless as a blowjob from an ugly hooker whose mouth is wired shut. However, should those of you who have graciously given up your time and money so that I can climb on the weekends decide to replace bolts/anchors, let me know and I would be honored to help.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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