whatever happened to onsight climbing???

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Meadows
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Post by Meadows »

Moving past the fifth bolt where you bump with your right hand after getting a good left foot (where I put a mark). :mrgreen: Useful, eh?
Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb »

Meadows wrote:Moving past the fifth bolt where you bump with your right hand after getting a good left foot (where I put a mark). :mrgreen: Useful, eh?
actually i've used that little ramp since the first time i've been on it. ever since then i've used the foot and haven't passed it up.. ticking it did nothing except, now that you mention it, it threw me off for a split second because i was confused as to how chalk got on it.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
Meadows
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Post by Meadows »

I don't think we're both thinking of the same move, Paul.
Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb »

regardless, if you think by ticking a hold "for me" you helped me out, you're kidding yourself. on one hand i appreciate the thought and thanks but no thanks. on the other hand i could take it (but don't) as you thinking i couldn't figure it out for myself, which i could (but don't) resent.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
Meadows
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Post by Meadows »

Actually, I ticked it "for me." Thanks for the potential resentment.

Do you actually have a stance on this issue? It seems that you support Alan Evil in his pursuit to stop chalking, yet you use chalk and I haven't seen you brushing off tick marks (yours or others).
meetVA
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Post by meetVA »

Hey Tickmarks vs world hunger? Do we really need to get this upset about it? Deep breaths everyone, deep breaths.


As long as I've known Paul he has minimized his use of chalk, as does Yasmeen come to think of it. Several times I've beothced at them for greasing up the route before I got on it. And I can only think of one time in history where Paul actually ticked a hold and I don't even think he did it for himself. His memory is damn good on its own.
I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
- Robert McCloskey

A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.
- Emo Philips
Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb »

i do have a stance: that tick marks aren't needed and if you are using them you should brush them off. as for chalk, i'd rather be without it but in these conditions climbing the things i climb (that is, things at or close my limit, climbs that make me sweat), i end up needing it. perhaps i should back off some of the climbs i would "need" it for since, practically, i don't have to climb to live or survive.. or maybe i can try some substitutes, which i plan on getting in a week or so. but i have a hard time understanding the need for huge tick marks. and an even more difficult time understanding why they aren't brushed off after use.

you're right: i miss read what you wrote and you never said the tick mark was for me. that was me jumping ahead. i'm sorry.

and you're right about not having seen me brush tick marks.. but how often do you climb with me? admittedly, i don't brush as much as i should. i've been trying to be better with it, especially now that i have a brush (though it still won't stay on my bag..). i definitely did try to do what i could with the huge tick mark on "crucify me". and i can't remember that i've ever ticked something on a route. if i have, it was a long time ago and i've since recognized the error of my ways ;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb »

meetVA wrote:His memory is damn good on its own.
admittedly, this is probably where the weakness of my argument comes into play: i simply don't understand the need for them. that being said, i have terrible memory with respect to other things and i need to write them down. the difference is, though, writing down personal notes doesn't affect other people's interpretation of things. that why i'm not necessarily against tick marks themselves but i'm against leaving them there.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
Wes
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Post by Wes »

I need them. I can't always remember the hold, or part of a hold, or the foot that I need for every move on a long route. Or, I need them because the clock is ticking on how long I can hold on, and every micro second that a tick mark saves me is needed. I also love onsight (?)/ flash climbing with streaming beta and ticked holds, where it is just constant motion of grabing the right hold and moving fast because of the ticks and beta. Some of the most fun I have had is with Sunshine feeding me beta on a route right at my limit. Just full on movement.

I sometimes brush them, but usually don't. So sue me.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
J-Rock
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Post by J-Rock »

Larry Day and the many of the other "old school" climbers didn't need tick marks.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
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