Anchors atop FFD

Post by **Ascentionist** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 2:01 pm

JR wrote:Ascentionist your posts bug the shit out of me.
Sorry.

Happy to oblige. At least you're reading them. It means I still have an audience.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 2:25 pm

yas, why all you locasl gotta ruin piglet's fun?

on a semi serious note, meadows brought o my atention that people learning to lead inside is not always the best option. outside, many people have been mentored by the old guard, and get a thorough lesson in all aspects of keeping the climber safe. inside, some gyms allow any gumby to just pick up a rope and start leading. I was assuming that every gym operated on safe guidelines, and made everyone take a lead class, or checked out every new person for leading skills before letting them loose on the walls. meadows informed me that is not always the case.

so this is a disclaimer corollary to the ruling. I'd hate for anyone to get hurt. If you learn outside, please learn from an old pro, and not your buddy that has been leading for 13 days. inside, please get proper instruction. falls in either environment can be very serious.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 2:42 pm

How about learning by trial and error after reading magazines and books? And then teaching your 14 year old cousin to belay so you'd have a climbing partner...

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:26 pm

that'll work too.....

Post by **Ascentionist** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:36 pm

Bob Callahan used to tell me that I was going to get killed letting a kid belay me. But I've seen a lot of adults that were worse belayers. And he (my cousin) eventually outgrew me, so it was a moot point as to whether or not he could handle belaying.

Post by **Sunshine** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:40 pm

Tell us more about Bob Callahan. I heard he is truly wise. Doesn't spray or name drop.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 6:02 pm

Who, the Professor?

As far as I know he lives in Stanton now. Saw him a year or so ago at the Wal-Mart in Mt Sterling. Told me he was getting ready to get back in to the swing of things. Y'know, onsighting obscure routes that are really hard, the grade is just wrong in the guidebook. And he was there when Porter drilled the third bolt with a toothbrush handle and got the second ascent on top rope.

As long as I've known Bob I've nevr seen him lead a route. But I've seen him dog them on top rope plenty.

Post by **Sunshine** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 7:59 pm

Fascinating!

Post by **Don McGlone** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:26 pm

Ascentionist wrote:As long as I've known Bob I've nevr seen him lead a route. But I've seen him dog them on top rope plenty.

Yep, that's him all right. The Morehead gumbies always called him 'Philosophical Bob' because he was so, shall we say 'philosophical' about everything. No matter what we had done or where we had done it, he had done it first. And in much better style, of course. Funny shit.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:56 pm

Porter drilled a bolt with a toothbrush handle?