Bolt the cracks and stop hiding...

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

[quote="powell.se"]Dear 512OW,

My knee jerk reaction to your post was to tell you that you’re a Punk Ass Bitch who doesn’t know what the fuck they’re talking about. Then I figured maybe I should give you clear a cut example of why climbing a Trad route is indeed more difficult than climbing a Sport route. But then again, there’s no reason I can’t do both.

If, as you say, Trad is “NO MORE DIFFICULT than Sport climbingâ€
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
L K Day
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Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:29 am

Post by L K Day »

Trad is stll the real deal, while sport turns climbing into a pure game. I don't think anything will ever change that.

For example, the experience of doing a hard alpine route onsight can't be replicated on a sport climb.

Real climbing is not only harder, it's better.

That said, you should be spending most of your "climbing" time in the gym and on sport climbs.
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ahab
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Post by ahab »

512OW wrote:They climbed the place out. There are only 7 cracks here worth doing...
L Day wrote:Sadly, that's only a slight exaggeration.
let's see the list so i don't waste my time on any unworthy choss piles not included in the magnificent 7.
buy the Ticket take the Ride
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

ahab wrote:
512OW wrote:They climbed the place out. There are only 7 cracks here worth doing...
L Day wrote:Sadly, that's only a slight exaggeration.
let's see the list so i don't waste my time on any unworthy choss piles not included in the magnificent 7.
Hmmm....

From easiest to hardest:

Cavers (doesn't count against my 7 because its hardly even climbing)
Roadside Attraction
RockWars
Return of Geoff Beene
Inhibitor
B3
Mr. Get It On Jones
Welcome to Ole Kentuck

If I had to choose a 2nd 7:
Autumn
Andromeda Strain
Where Lizards Dare
Rebar
Thunder Chicken
Fibrulator Direct
Hidden Dragon
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
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ahab
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Post by ahab »

no cuntry lovin'? perhaps it'll be included in the 3rd set of 7...
buy the Ticket take the Ride
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

ahab wrote:no cuntry lovin'? perhaps it'll be included in the 3rd set of 7...
The second and third pitches of Country Lovin are fuckin amazing, but the first pitch sucks. If you skip it and just jump to the ledge from the boulder, and then traverse to the roof crack... then it'd be in the first set.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
charlie
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 4:55 pm

Post by charlie »

The important thing to note here is the SEC crushes the Big 12 and the Buckeyes should just ignore their BCS invitations from now on.
captain static
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Post by captain static »

Thanks Charlie for finally posting a meaningful comment.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
charlie
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 4:55 pm

Post by charlie »

Just trying to help.
TradMike
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Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

Route finding, effective gear placements and self control is what makes Trad climbing more difficult than Sport. When a bolt is placed this difficulty is erased or reduced significantly. Unless you are saying a bolters efforts are no effort at all.
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