What is better - Rapelling or Lowering?

[gregkerzhner]

Rappelling is gay. So is Andrew.

[Andrew]

I learned from watching you. ^

[Paul3eb]

*I rap. I prefer to rap. I prefer to not shave my rope or the anchors any more than necessary. I prefer to control my rate of descent. I prefer to not have to wonder about communicating with the belayer. "I'm in direct, I will rap, take me off," is so much more confidence inspiring than trying to communicate about a lower, especially with someone you don't climb with often.

*exceptions being steep ass routes that are obviously easier on a lower.

[JR]

I alway find it weird that people care how you lower off routes. Do what you want.

I will say that whichever method you prefer there are many nuances that go into getting down safely and easily. Here is a short list of little things to think about that help me.

Lowering:

1. Tram-Stay connected to the lead rope with a draw connected to your harness.
2. Watch that swing-As you get ready to pull that last draw or cam. Check your flight path.
3. The Pull-As you lower out on a steep climb trying to get those last few draws on a steep route. Have your belayer pull on his end to help you batman back into the wall.
4. Go direct-clip directly to the second to last bolt if you can flip around and grab the first draw from this position. This will save you from pulling back in for the last bolt and will leave you higher on the route giving you more room for error in assessing your flight path.
5. Get a burn-Don't take that monster swing. Just start climbing after cleaning the draws. The farther you go the smaller the swing.


Rappeling:

1. Leg rap-rap the rope around your leg to control yourself hands free. Not as safe as other devices used explicitly for this purpose.
2. Firemans-Have a buddy stop your descent by pulling on the rope. He or she can also pull you back into the wall if need be.
3. Tread lightly-Rappeling may lower the wear and tear on your rope and anchors.
4. Control- You are more in control of your safety. Speed, set up, etc.

[dbrayack]

Which one of you was this???

Eighth-Grader Faces Felony Charge for Planting Nuts in Lunch of Allergic Classmate
Sunday, April 20, 2008

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LEXINGTON, Ky. — An eighth-grader in Kentucky is accused of putting peanut butter cookie crumbs in the lunchbox of a classmate with a severe peanut allergy.

The allergic student did not eat the cookies Thursday at Morton Middle School in Lexington.

Fayette County schools spokeswoman Lisa Deffendall says the accused student was arrested on a felony wanton endangerment charge. The student will face charges in the juvenile court system.

Deffendall says it was well known that the other student suffered allergies. There was no known history of problems between the two 13-year-olds.

For those allergic to peanuts, trace amounts of peanut oil can cause severe reactions and even death.

[MacGyver]

Can you give me one good reason to NOT lower?

I've read many injury reports because of things that ANYONE can do by accident - like only clipping one rappel rope....

I don't want to hear - wear on the anchor, because its minimal and rings are easily replaced.

One good reason, there are many but here is one you may not have heard: I trust myself a hell of a lot more than anyone else. If you rap you are in control of your safety. Don't get me wrong, I like and trust most of my climbing partners, but things can always get miscommunicated. If you trust someone else more than you trust yourself I don't want to climb with you.

[dbrayack]

I love your "signature" quote.

[512OW]

I agree with Dan. And Paul. And me.

Rapping is safer for the hardware.

Lowering is safer for the climber.

I'll do whatever I want, regardless of what the "norm" is.

Steep routes should be lowered. Rappelling is stupid.

Friends don't let friends rappell.

[dbrayack]

what we really need is Hugh to set us all straight.

[ElectricDisciple]

What would Terry have to say about this? I ask 'cause he'd always be right.