The Trad Climbers Inequality

Post by **caribe** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:47 pm

Tradies v. Sporties reminds me of a movie:
If you are old enough to remember this one, you better run to the doctor get the cholesterol and the prostate checked.

The Outsiders (1983)

Francis Ford Coppola

Matt Dillon ... Dallas 'Dally' Winston
Ralph Macchio ... Johnny Cade
C. Thomas Howell ... Ponyboy Curtis
Patrick Swayze ... Darrel 'Darry' Curtis
Rob Lowe ... Sodapop Curtis
Emilio Estevez ... Keith 'Two-Bit' Mathews
Tom Cruise ... Steve Randle
Glenn Withrow ... Tim Shepard
Diane Lane ... Sherri 'Cherry' Valance
Leif Garrett ... Bob Sheldon

Post by **ynot** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:52 pm

At first I was bummed at my lack of points. I have about as many sends as I do points. Then I figured the person who started the point thing climbs 5.12 trad and must know what he's doing so I just let well enough alone.

Post by **Josephine** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:19 pm

ynot wrote:At first I was bummed at my lack of points. I have about as many sends as I do points. Then I figured the person who started the point thing climbs 5.12 trad and must know what he's doing so I just let well enough alone.

good call.

Post by **ReachHigh** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:54 am

I think every route sent should get at least one point. Makes a life of climbing 5.7 seem a little more fulfilling.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:31 am

Josephine wrote:
ynot wrote:At first I was bummed at my lack of points. I have about as many sends as I do points. Then I figured the person who started the point thing climbs 5.12 trad and must know what he's doing so I just let well enough alone.
good call.

but he doesn't climb trad anymore...he has seen the light, hence the skewed preference for sport.

caribe....sorry about the comparison..let me re-phrase. most solid sporties can walk 5.10 trad blind folded.

Post by **caribe** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:26 am

pigsteak wrote:let me re-phrase. most solid sporties can walk 5.10 trad blind folded.

Another baseless fact from the far right.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:42 am

why deal in reality when I can be a neo con for free, and live in my delusions?

Post by **captain static** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:55 am

IMO it is easier to transfer from trad to sport than vice versa. A couple antecdotes:

TK and I were climbing "No Return" 5.9+ and some young kids came up and flashed "Commencement" 5.11c. After we got down the kids got on "No Return". TK and I got much amusement from watching those kids flail and struggle up it.

Was doing "Minimum Creep" with a good sport climber. They struggled with the crack start even after I gave them the trad beta.

On "Recoil" there is a solid finger lock above the lip of the low overhang that I use every time. My sport climbing friends avoid that lock like the plague.

Post by **caribe** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:31 pm

The biggest diff between trad and sport is the time spent making decisions about your safety. All this time you can be on the pump clock and more so the higher the grade. Hanging the draws or not on sport can be the difference between send or fall. People that climb hard trad are harder people than people that climb hard sport, and no the point system does not reflect this. I totally agree with the originator of this post.

Captain, I have been the humble victim a few times on trad routes.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:20 pm

caribe...not true at all.....on a sport route, I take hours making decisions about your safety (the FA of a sport line has merely done the hard work for you.)

btw, what is your def of hard trad......5.12 sport and 5.12 trad the same "hardness"?