RRC Archives

Are we including Pink Points in this discussion?

One for the send, two for safety.



If touching the chains were to constitute a send, then it stands to reason that there wouldn't be a need for anchors on sport routes. Just a big taped 'X' to throw for. Like a balloon race, or maybe hroseshoes.

Top roping would be relegated to trad routes and slings on trees and such.

I'm thinking you at least have to clip one. I never quite understood the 'victory whip' thing.

That said, you have to pick your battles.

krampus, you are treading on thin ice....

If its a redpoint, why would you hang two anchor draws and only clip one?

Its a redpoint if you make it to the anchors with two hangs or less and clip one of them, or one hang and clip both anchors...or is it a redpoint if we simply make it to the anchors? I'm confused.

rjackson wrote: If touching the chains were to constitute a send, then it stands to reason that there wouldn't be a need for anchors on sport routes. Just a big taped 'X' to throw for. Like a balloon race, or maybe hroseshoes.

If hitting the chains, as opposed to clipping, doesn't constitute a send, that would invalidate the fa of some of the reds hardest routes. Ramsey jumped at the chains on at least one of his fa sends in the madness cave. In fact, jumping from the anchors on the redpoint is a longstanding tradition at the lode.

sorry lander, but this is way off base. scin needs to rewrite the guidebook..... if ya ain't got the juice to clip, you didn't send. prove it by clipping and then unclipping if you must. this sport has already been watered down beyond comprehension.

next thing people will say prehung draws allow a redpoint.

and then a stick clipped first bolt.

and then a cheater stone on certain routes but not others.

and that certain rests are off to call a route 5.**

I am warning you..that day will come.

do it

Pigsteak, that day has already come. I've personally witnessed each of the scenarios you listed. And in each case, the route was considerd sent by everyone there. I saw someone do an ascent with the third bolt stick clipped. No one there questioned it. I'm not saying all that is a good thing but it is what it is.

According to Websters

"Redpoint (In Sport Climbing): When the climber succesfully completes a climb from the ground up without using a stick-clip, without pre-hung draws, does not use cheater stones, does not use "rests", clips into the anchors, un-clips the anchors whereupon the climber must then down climb whilst cleaning his/her draws from said route, without weighting the rope."

we clear now