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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:15 pm
by poser
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 2:30 am
by poser
Why I have to give up climbing:
"Columnist Ed Blonz, who holds a Ph.D. in nutrition, puts it in perspective this way: Eating 100 charcoal-grilled steaks will statistically increase your odds of dying by one in a million—but so will rock climbing for 1.5 minutes, bicycle riding for 10 minutes, and being a 60-year-old man for 20 minutes. In other words, the risks are greatly overrated."
From this article about carcinogens:
http://www.slate.com/id/2143573
How many climbing minutes have you clocked?
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 10:33 am
by Myke Dronez
So you're advocating meat consumption?
Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:12 pm
by poser
How about some serious, scientific studies on training to climb....
Eric J. Hörst has a good collection:
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/new/research.shtml
Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 4:04 pm
by ahab
a brief history of active protection. "get high with a little help from your friends."
http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm[/url]
Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 3:28 pm
by poser
Thanks, it's a good link.
The best collection of sports medicine articles for climbers that I've found is here:
http://www.athlon.com.au/articles.htm
Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 4:45 pm
by poser
If you've noticed how many climbers are mathematicians/physicists/engineers--or you are one of them--this is a fun read:
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.h ... wanted=all
Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:57 pm
by poser
A good safe bolting practices collection:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/education.htm
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:56 pm
by poser
More bolting links:
For engineering types like the webers, ashtray, etc here's an analysis of chem bolts in sandstone:
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SandstoneBolting.pdf
The Reader's Digest condensed version for the less mathematically inclined *grin*:
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/SandstoneBolting.htm
And, for those long, non-climbing winter nights that will soon be here, a bunch of less technical tips from the same site:
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips.htm
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:43 am
by Myke Dronez
Oh brother. 90 pages of bolt testing analysis? Coming from the guy who loves old rusty bolts and has rack that is literally a 'history of active protection'? We really do need to get out more.