What it takes to send harder?
I don't have a 'fear' of heights, but you won't catch me standing on a ledge ropeless either. I have noticed over the years, and when I really started moving up in the grades a bit, that the height never played a role. I would focus singly on my immediate surroundings, the rock within my reach and the small section of route to the next hanger. Breaking the climb up into smaller problems. Even when I would look down at my feet, I would look at my feet and not the ground. If I didn't send, I would still be focused on what was right in front of me, analyzing the route as I lowered. I'm moving up the route, but not with the perspective that I'm getting far from the ground. A lot of the time I don't even realize the route is that long until after I send and then I would look around at the view, after the work is done.
To get stronger combines a lot of variables, but if I had to pick one it would be desire. You can be strong, have the technique and tools, but if you don't want it - it ain't happening. I also believe not everyone can climb the big numbers (13/8a and up) no matter how hard you train. I think there are limitations to each individual that are genetic but if you want it bad enough and are willing to work for it, you'll be suprised at how far you 'can' go.
To get stronger combines a lot of variables, but if I had to pick one it would be desire. You can be strong, have the technique and tools, but if you don't want it - it ain't happening. I also believe not everyone can climb the big numbers (13/8a and up) no matter how hard you train. I think there are limitations to each individual that are genetic but if you want it bad enough and are willing to work for it, you'll be suprised at how far you 'can' go.
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
No, really!!! If you want to know what makes me stong, Then check this out!!! It will make your climbing dreams come true.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk5TQFw-1E8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk5TQFw-1E8
The hacksaw strikes again
Thanks DriskelHR. I knew this was coming. The Mantra of the Weak Climber.DriskellHR wrote: I don't climb for numbers. I don't climb for anyone, or anything other than myself. which is the way it should be!! Thats the great thing about climbing though. what works for one may not work for another. So climb for yourself.
If you want to be OK with climbing at the same level forever. Start mumbling this little ditty ad nauseam.
But hey thats the GREAT thing. You too can not care that you perpetually suck. I am sure you are good at other things.
1. Train your ass off. This includes power endurance, power, and endurance.
2. Learn to deal with injuries. As you train harder you will get injured. Learn to deal with some pain otherwise you will never get better because you'll always be nursing an injury. Just because you're injured doesn't mean you stop training. This may just apply to old guys like me so ignore if you're a young dude who never gets injured.
3. Climb outside as much as possible. Just because it's raining doesn't mean you shouldn't go out and do laps somewhere.
4. Don't get too caught up in things that are supposed to help you climb better but don't involve climbing. For example, bench pressing 2 days a week may make you feel stronger and may prevent injuries from unbalanced muscles but it won't bump you up a letter grade.
5. If you're overweight, lose weight.
6. Learn to dig deep to stay on. Sometimes when I'm feeling emotionally weak I can't climb as well. But if I dig down deep for some rage reserve I can pull it off. At your very peak you will have to dig deep and really want what you're trying to send.
7. Don't get too caught up into thinking that if your bouldering gets stronger your climbing will get stronger. Most gym climbers and boulderers have way more power than they'll need at the Red on *most* of the routes. If you fail, it's probably because you pumped out. Go set some long problems or do quick circuits in the gym.
8. Watch videos and read mags. You may feel satisfied and think you are climbing at your peak but then you'll read about a 46 year old who did his first 5.14a. This will make you train harder because you'll realize you can still get better.
2. Learn to deal with injuries. As you train harder you will get injured. Learn to deal with some pain otherwise you will never get better because you'll always be nursing an injury. Just because you're injured doesn't mean you stop training. This may just apply to old guys like me so ignore if you're a young dude who never gets injured.
3. Climb outside as much as possible. Just because it's raining doesn't mean you shouldn't go out and do laps somewhere.
4. Don't get too caught up in things that are supposed to help you climb better but don't involve climbing. For example, bench pressing 2 days a week may make you feel stronger and may prevent injuries from unbalanced muscles but it won't bump you up a letter grade.
5. If you're overweight, lose weight.
6. Learn to dig deep to stay on. Sometimes when I'm feeling emotionally weak I can't climb as well. But if I dig down deep for some rage reserve I can pull it off. At your very peak you will have to dig deep and really want what you're trying to send.
7. Don't get too caught up into thinking that if your bouldering gets stronger your climbing will get stronger. Most gym climbers and boulderers have way more power than they'll need at the Red on *most* of the routes. If you fail, it's probably because you pumped out. Go set some long problems or do quick circuits in the gym.
8. Watch videos and read mags. You may feel satisfied and think you are climbing at your peak but then you'll read about a 46 year old who did his first 5.14a. This will make you train harder because you'll realize you can still get better.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
Don't worry DriskellHR. I also climb for me...........JR wrote:Thanks DriskelHR. I knew this was coming. The Mantra of the Weak Climber.DriskellHR wrote: I don't climb for numbers. I don't climb for anyone, or anything other than myself. which is the way it should be!! Thats the great thing about climbing though. what works for one may not work for another. So climb for yourself.
If you want to be OK with climbing at the same level forever. Start mumbling this little ditty ad nauseam.
But hey thats the GREAT thing. You too can not care that you perpetually suck. I am sure you are good at other things.
.......to get more points!
Jr, of course he's weak - but this is not about climbing harder. didn't you read the last paragraph? he wants to "send" his partner - not the route. it seemed pretty clear to me that all he wants is a consolation fuck in the parking lot after he fails to send.
He should partner with Horatio - I'm sure Ho could show him a thing or two about "sending" in style!
He should partner with Horatio - I'm sure Ho could show him a thing or two about "sending" in style!
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun