Page 2 of 4
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:22 pm
by bcombs
charlie wrote:Last pitch is hella long and wanders a bit, so it's rope draggy on the topout. Be smart about it.
[movebeta]look up as you pull the roof for a decent crimper on the right side. air it out, and yank to get your feet on. there's a piece at your waist when you pull the roof so don't sally out, just do it!!!!![/movebeta]...
Nice! Thanks for the movebeta, that will help me be confident in there. The gear for the top is what I was most curious about. I can asses the bottom once I get there but I really hate getting to the upper pitch to find out the top is an offwidth and I'm equipped with aliens.
Ynot, If its as classic as they say I'm sure I'll be up for climbing it again with you in the spring. As soon as the weather looks good to you hit me up for a weekday trip.
Brad
edited to fix the /quote
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:43 pm
by L K Day
Thanks for the kind words Charlie. But the route was none of my doing, I just got to climb it first and hang a name on it. I didn't see the crimper at the crux, but I sure could have used it.
I really think the route is best done in four short pitches, less chance of rope drag, and all three of the belay perches are just too cool to miss out on.
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:21 am
by pkananen
ynot, I'd be up for climbing it with you when it's warm.
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:45 pm
by ScrmnPeeler
Brad, did you get on this? If not I'll give you a catch and kind words when I head back in a week or so...
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:56 pm
by Danny
While you're at it, if you want to be a real swell person, and want some adventure, after you do "Jungle Beat" step to the left and climb " Things That Go Bump In the Night" and put a rap sling and and quick link on a tree at the top.
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:26 pm
by ynot
Danny ,that thing sucked so bad ,I bailed after half of it. Kinda rotten and the gear was getting slim.
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:42 pm
by Danny
my kind of route, the top out is the dirtiest ever. i did clean out a bunch of brush so it won't be quite as fun.
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:05 pm
by ynot
Did you find my bail nut? We are prolly the only people to climb it in several years.
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:08 pm
by bcombs
The bottom pitch was wet when we were there. Well that's the excuse I'll use anyways.
I did get Parting Gift so the day wasn't all bad!
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:33 pm
by Danny
ynot, yes I got your nut dude.