RRC Archives

Thanks for the clarification piggie, I knew what they were saying didn't make sense, but didn't do a good job of explaining it like you did.

pigsteak wrote:... but everyone of you chuffers is using the term "american death triangle" incorrectly..........

nice piggie. i like your use the C word. What a hater! Are you sure you aren't a secret crusty. Have you been sitting in the back at our meetings????

Tray, I learn from the best...watching you, buster, and lurk bust chops has been my dream apprenticeship....I'm gonna cry with joy....someday, if y'all will have me....someday.

pigsteak wrote: hanging two draws on two seperate bolts at an anchor station (with or without chains) does not constitute an "american death traingle".

True, but if you threaded the rope through the bolts and rapped off of them (see the green rope in the picture), you'd get an ADT-like situation.

And after looking at that picture again, that setup is totally unnecessary. If the TR wasn't treaded through the quicklinks to begin with (they aren't doing anything other than backing up the TR in case the biners fail -- how likely is that?) then the rap could be set up on them and not the bolts.

I believe the reason is that the top biners take the top roping wear and the rope is run through the chains so once top roping is down you can remove the biners and lower or rap off the changes with the rope pre threaded.

pete, i'd really love to help you out a little further. maybe you could send your hubbie, along with me, to do a little reconnaissance investigation this summer. 2 or 3 weeks would be plenty of time...plus i can send you daily emails on our progress of climbing, drinking, and frequenting all the gentlemans clubs in new paltz. only because i like you though.

HF -- that's a kind offer. i knew you were a stand up guy. remind me to tell you about the last time lurk went to a "gentleman's club" (the last time I'm aware of anyhow...)...

before you plan the trip, do check w/ Buster -- I know he wanted to do a similar reconn trip in the Valley... I can't see any reason why y'all shouldn't go... and I'll even watch your dog while you're out of town.

ReachHigh wrote:I believe the reason is that the top biners take the top roping wear and the rope is run through the chains so once top roping is down you can remove the biners and lower or rap off the changes with the rope pre threaded.

Maybe, but my guess is that the Gunks is practically overflowing with Jerries and Chuffers (from the big cities) who don't know their ass from a hole in the ground (i bet is was just super extra jerry redundancy - like having two locking beaners tethered to your harness for stripping anchors). I bet they have all sorts of opinions on this stuff too. And if this post offends you, then may i humbly suggest that you quit climbing right now, Jerry.

Are those gates not locked? Are those carabiners not opposed? Are those quicklinks not locktighted? Green ropes are weaker. How unsafe!!! This setup should be tested!!

ashtray wrote: i bet [it] was just super extra jerry redundancy - like having two locking beaners tethered to your harness for stripping anchors.

ReachHigh wrote:I believe the reason is that the top biners take the top roping wear and the rope is run through the chains so once top roping is down you can remove the biners and lower or rap off the changes with the rope pre threaded.

although i don't quite understand. let's say i'm out with Super Jerry (aka S.J.). I set up the TR situation on the red rope. S.J. climbs up, gets to the top and is oh so proud. Now S.J. is ready to go down., so he anchors himself in with his Ashtray-Approved S.J. Anchor Cleaning Redundancy System - two locking biners tethered to his harness. He then removes the locking biners, pulls more rope through the quick links, and sets up his rappel and away he goes. More or less.

If S.J. is capable of doing all that, then I might as well set up the standard scenario of TRing through a set of quick draws. It's a lot faster to set up and it’s not going to take much more to set up the rap.

The only way this would make a good S.J. situation would be if I were, heaven forbid, lowering him through the fixed gear. In that situation, S.J. could climb up and be oh so proud. When ready to come down, S.J. simply removes the 2 locking biners, and I lower him to the ground. That scenario makes more sense to me.

Not that anyone would ever lower off fixed gear.