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so whats to keep you from going out to said places wes and making your bet the shoe-in??

my votes for friction slab.

Why not have a bolting day? I would gladly help replace bolts in the red but would like to have someone show me the do's and don'ts. I also don't know all of the forest service rules that go along with it. But if any one wants to re-bolt some routes I would be glad to help and pay for some gear.

I will cowboy up and pony up for rebolting.

Rethinking this, I just can't leave it alone. There is not going to be a bolt failure in 2008. People look at bolts and say I am not climbing on that; we filter and we are responsible! Furthermore we have a community composed of people like Wes who are worrying about it and who are capable of fixing really dire bolts. When stuff is rusted enough to worry about it, we just won't use it. The design parameters in the worst bolts are way more than the forces a hard whipper will but on the bolts. Thousands of people use this board and a good deal more climb in the Red. I have not heard of one bolt failure, not one.

On the other hand, some of the bolts I have seen on the older routes make me wonder a bit. They should probably be replaced. It would be damn stupid to wait for a bolt failure to do something about it.

All this reminds me of the Muir Valley incident when someone said that there were bad bolts at Muir. Rick closed the place and recruited the community to check every bolt on every route! THAT WAS BADASS!! That is what I call commitment. Think about it! We are going to wank off about this issue in this forum for a few pages. Makes me want to get a T shirt with 'What Would Rick Weber Do' printed across the chest.

makes me want to wear a shirt with BBQ sauce on it.

caribe wrote:Rethinking this, I just can't leave it alone. There is not going to be a bolt failure in 2008. People look at bolts and say I am not climbing on that; we filter and we are responsible! Furthermore we have a community composed of people like Wes who are worrying about it and who are capable of fixing really dire bolts. When stuff is rusted enough to worry about it, we just won't use it. The design parameters in the worst bolts are way more than the forces a hard whipper will but on the bolts. Thousands of people use this board and a good deal more climb in the Red. I have not heard of one bolt failure, not one.

On the other hand, some of the bolts I have seen on the older routes make me wonder a bit. They should probably be replaced. It would be damn stupid to wait for a bolt failure to do something about it.

All this reminds me of the Muir Valley incident when someone said that there were bad bolts at Muir. Rick closed the place and recruited the community to check every bolt on every route! THAT WAS BADASS!! That is what I call commitment. Think about it! We are going to wank off about this issue in this forum for a few pages. Makes me want to get a T shirt with 'What Would Rick Weber Do' printed across the chest.

caribe, you ignorant slut...
I saw a bolt fail on Sand. (everyone knew that one was crap, most of all the guy who place it and said "don't fall on that one, hahahahaha!). Hugh (lurkist) had one fail on him while falling off Twinkie and another pulled out of Strevel's Gets In Shape while someone was top roping on it (It was the second bolt). Common thread....Porter's draw out bolts with threaded shafts.
If you wanna go see another bolt fail hang out at the base of Tacit this spring. Porter and Brian McCray were using Korean sleeve bolts for a time. These things were a bit better than draw out bolts from the first wave of bolting but a far cry from the proven bomberness of Rawl 5 piece bolts (blue tips, heh).
The bottom line is that you can't tell how good a bolt is unless you are the person who places the thing and they only get weaker with age. Every single mechanical anchor should be trusted like you would trust 512OW with your virgin cousin.

whatever, you are probably wearing a shirt with BBQ sauce on it right now

How did you know?

I have these T-shirts for sale.

Reminds me of the DWS resolution by the Army Corps of Phelgmineers, we should instigate the No Bolt Left Behind policy, inform the nazi's the rules have changed and start playing by our rules not the government not of the people, in fact I'm almost ready to cut the purse strings on the whole state and federal government, its time for a change my fellow citizens, time for a change.