RRC Archives

Some random individual factors;

motivation
time available for climbing
weight
head
age (as related to recovery time and injury prone-ness)
willingness to train (training can make you stonger than just climbing all the time but its not as much fun)

Maybe one of you scientific types could create an equation. Mutants like Katie should be excluded from consideration. It's like putting a genious in a class of average students. It throws the curve way off.

Based upon my individual research, there is a 5 yr minimum to "maybe" not be considered Gumby. Margin of error changes based upon partners, time outside, places you travel, tolerance for alcohol. Doesn't matter how hard you climb.

Of course, some people are terminally gumby and it just can't be helped.

I think the greatest factor is the amount of time dedicated to climbing. I find it difficult to "train" for climbing without actually climbing. The people I see who end up climbing 12s and 13s within a year or two have several months of their lives during which they can climb four days a week.

the lurkist wrote:
How long and what does it really take for a normal person to ascend to the grades 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, 5.13 5.14?

Grade | How long? | What it takes?

5.10 | Less than 1 year | Experience. Tinkering at the gym. Climbing outside. Getting guided instruction. Reading "how to climb" type books. Just about any amount of motivation once a week will get you there.

5.11 | Over 1 year | Refinement. Having a climbing partner. Knowing the ropes. You have an idea what you are good and bad at. Going to different areas. Climbing 1-2 times a week.

5.12 | Over 2 years | Obsessed. Excluding other activities. Having a good climbing partner. Perfected most techniques. Developed route tactics. Climbing at least 3 times a week. Training for climbing. Number hunting. Bouldering

5.13 | Over 5 years | Maniacal. Intense training. Weekly bouldering. Climbing 4 days a week. Weight being optimum. Projecting.

5.14 | Never | Gifted. X-Factors. These are not normal persons.

Keep in mind the average Joe will not automatically make it to the next grade through time. It sounds silly but Joe or Jane must decide to move up through the grades. I think most Joe's stop at 5.10 if they are not interested in grades.

Andrew wrote:Girlfriend/boyfriend adds a year.

Unless the girlfriend/boyfriend is an experienced (but patient) climber introducing the gumby to climbing.

That equals quitting climbing after two years.

JR, that is a very thoughful take on it. I take back the nasty name calling. (I felt bad anyway.)
Whatever other variables that are out there for manipulation, I have always thought that time available to spend at the cliff directly correlated to climbing level. This is provided, like JR said, they choose to chase the numbers and project the next grade. For instance, dudes who would take up residence at Miguel's and were initially 5.10 gumbies would within a years time be climbing solid 5.12.
Another example was a guy who used to climb a bunch (days a week) and actually guided quite a bit. He was trying to make an argument that climbing 5.12 wasn't necessarily a qualification to be a guide. My response was no it isn't a qualification, but how could someone climb that much in the Red and not climb 5.12?

Does the person even care about climbing harder? If yes, then the desire, barring prohibitive circumstances (injury, location, kids, job, etc.), should get them heading in the direction of climbing harder.

But there's a lot of climbers who are probably happy climbing whatever grade they're at (but could climb harder), so they're not likely to climb harder grades no matter how much time passes.

Maybe the desire to climb harder is a top factor, and then beyond that there's definitely the levels of discipline and commitment. JR lays it out well. However, I think everyone has an off the couch starting point, depending on age, physique, head, etc. and then the levels of commitment increase from that starting point.

Another factor that has been important to me: The people you climb with.

When I looked up to & climbed with 5.9 climbers, I climbed 5.9 and was happy.
When I looked up to & climbed with 5.10 climbers, I climbed 5.10 and was happy.

Then, I was introduced to the dark side...bouldering...

Sure my training changed, but so did the people I looked up to.
I was being dragged to Torrent & reassured that I should be able to send this route or that...and who was I to not believe them? Within a couple months, I was climbing sport-5.11/5.12.
--I hadn't dropped any lbs. overall
--I was running less & slower than I ever had in my life
--I still could do the same # of pull ups
--My marital status didn't change or any of those excuses

So, I blame my climbing progression on my friends. I miss you all!

I agree with those who cite time spent and the company kept as primary factors in attaining sends at higher grades in quicktime. After 9 years of climbing, it wasn't until I quit my 6 day-a week job so I could climb every weekend that I was finally able to be consistent even on easy 5.11's, and by the end of the same season I had sent a few 5.12's. And I spent the season with people who were so psyched to climb that they made me feel like I could give almost anything a go (Thanks, Meadows!). I would imagine that a new climber in these same circumstances would spend one season blowing through 9's, 10's, and maybe easy 11's, and then have to decide if they care to climb any harder.

Oh, and yoga. Oh my god, yoga.