Leading

[der uber]

Go with an experienced lead climber. Get on something you've tr'd before if you're nervous about leading onsight.

Take it one bolt at a time, and make sure your rope isn't behind your leg.

[JR]

How long did most of you take to start leading simple sport climbs? I started climbing on top rope in the middle of October. I have been climbing about 14 times since then. I have cleaned a route and rappelled down, but I have never done lead.I am thinking about leading a short 5.6 climb (that I have climbed about 3 times on top rope) tomorrow. What are your opinions on the level of experience required to do this?

Your screen Signature:

“A man of knowledge lives by acting, not by thinking about acting.â€

[allah]

leading is scary, keep top roping it is a lot safer. Wait to start leading until you can TR 5.14 without falling.

[whatahutch]

Listen to Maggie and Duh urr or whatever his name is. Take an experienced leader out with you and do a faux lead. Which means youre on a TR and then another rope is tied into your belay loop UNDER the TR knot. Then fake lead with the second rope, lead the draws up to the last one before the anchors, come back down, then pull both ropes, and do the real thing with just one rope. Just make sure you have an experienced lead belayer, don't z-clip or back clip (look at the petzl catalog with sharma on the front if you don't understand those terms), and make sure your anchors are opposite and opposed, then you'll be fine. Oh yeah, lead way below your TR level of climbing, don't listen to whatevr that kid from ohio was saying about leading tens. Six is a good place to start. I suggest lowered expectations at sore heel as a good six. I started a friend of mine on leading that ckimb this summer and he was leading hard 10's by the end of this summer.
My wife is a NOLS certified safety nazi so maybe you can find one of those if you can't find any other experienced lead climbers and belayers. PM me if you want anymore info. I'd love to help in anyway possible, including being that lead belayer if possible.

[Atl]

JR, A man of knowledge does act instead of thinking about acting, but the man of knowledge must first have his shit squared away before acting. I think the quote refers to people who always talk but never do anything. I used to be one of those people. I decided to quit being that way a while back and that quote serves as a reminder to me to reject being a wanna-be and just BE.

Unfortunately I am still "thinking about acting" as it was quite wet out and I put it off until it gets a little more dry. I did visit the Red today, but I hiked into the hills and stared off into the distance a while before returning home. I will update this thread after the deed is done...and it will be done. I have prepared myself with knowledge, and feel ready to confront it.

Myke Dronez: I do sense what you discussed:

"you're only really climbing when you're leading." I know it to be an illusion, but there I am anyway.

[Josephine]

don't z-clip. especially at muir where it's very easy to do.

[kdelap]

Some people act like lead climbing is the boogeyman...but we all know that you're only really climbing when you're leading. 8)

Thats funny, cause I thought that you were only climbing when you were free soloing...

Take some lessons, mock lead, learn from others, read a book (sounds like you have already done this), hire a guide. All of these have the possibility of making your climbing career longer!

[Saxman]

So why did the climber clip the second bolt, then the first? Confused stick clipper?

[Myke Dronez]

You have a point there kdelap, ropes are bad news. Just ask Dano.

[enoch308]

Well ... Atl, so how did it go? In my book you are way overdue.