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Nope! If it bothers you, either grab sack and make the commitment or find another route. There is no shortage of routes out there folks. Find something that doesn't provide such a high pucker-factor if you need to. Same thing goes for the second bolt. Get aggro, pull down and clip that thing. This stickclipping thing is getting outta hand. You didn't see ML stick clip the 5th bolt on 50 words for Pump because he couldn't make the 4th clip did ya? He made a commitment and pulled hard.

Now I need to quit typing and answer the door. The UPS guy is here with the squid I ordered.

Hilarious!

Toy wrote:Nope! If it bothers you, either grab sack and make the commitment or find another route. There is no shortage of routes out there folks. Find something that doesn't provide such a high pucker-factor if you need to. Same thing goes for the second bolt. Get aggro, pull down and clip that thing. This stickclipping thing is getting outta hand. You didn't see ML stick clip the 5th bolt on 50 words for Pump because he couldn't make the 4th clip did ya? He made a commitment and pulled hard.

Now I need to quit typing and answer the door. The UPS guy is here with the squid I ordered.

You like calamari? i thought you was a kentucky boy (i mean man).

anyway, another bolt on American Dream? That is wank. Wank wank wank.

Frankly, I don't mind hard clips, but isn't sport climbing supposed to be about the moves? Thats what all the hardcore boltclippers are always preaching...

I think if you want to force "pucker-factor", maybe you should just go trad climbing...

All these sport climbing rules are retarded.

what is wierd about this OW? Here is the answer, whether it is trad or sport.....ask the FA for permission when any permanent change is being made to an established route.

btw, this whole "pucker factor" cause I climb trad game is retarded. you will only pucker on trad when you suck at gear placement.

btw, I only own 15 draws, and no trad gear.

Remove the first, and maybe lower the second and third a little bit. Then you can just clip the "first" bolt and not have to worry about the S.C.E.C. voiding your send. Seriously, if you are getting on that route and the 5.1 climbing to the ledge, even with stick clip in one hand, freaks you out, you need to reconsider your chosen pastime.

allah wrote:This past weekend at the darkside there were some people complaining that there wasnt a bolt lower than the first bolt. People were suggesting putting one in. What is everyone's opinion on this. Should people just suck it up and stop complaining or should there be another bolt.

pigsteak wrote:what is wierd about this OW? Here is the answer, whether it is trad or sport.....ask the FA for permission when any permanent change is being made to an established route.

I agree. It just seems strange to "force" a sport route to be scary if there is a better option. I know nothing about this route, so I'm just being general.

pigsteak wrote:btw, this whole "pucker factor" cause I climb trad game is retarded. you will only pucker on trad when you suck at gear placement..

Not true. There are plenty of trad routes with mandatory runouts that are determined by the rock, not by the first ascentionist or equipper. My point was just that the hardcore sporties are always screaming about it being more "pure" movement, with less to worry about. Why then would a new "worry" be purposely added? Just seems silly, thats all.

That said, I think it'd be retarded to put a lower first bolt, especially if you're stick clipping the first two anyway...





btw, I only own 15 draws, and no trad gear.[/quote]

512OW wrote:
I think if you want to force "pucker-factor", maybe you should just go trad climbing...

All these sport climbing rules are retarded.

Check prevailing weather conditions in hell. I agree with 512OW!

Holy crap. The end is near...

does the FA have any say in movement of bolts? I think that the bolts were originally placed arbitrarilly by the FA...if later climbing consensus decides that a bolt should be moved, then it should be moved. (even if the FA disagrees.)

I know I'll catch crap for that, but bolting routes to start is not rocket science, and bolters make mistakes they sometimes don't fix....maybe later climbers should have that latitude.

that being said, certain sport routes have developed a consensus to be left "spicy" to keep its aura intact...wouldn't you agree, OW, that this manufactured spiciness is retarded and should be removed immediately?