RRC Archives

someone help me here..I seem to have missed the fun...

kenny has a route that he sent without using a ledge. right? but others are now using the ledge to rest, and therefore making the route easier. what is the problem..if the ledge is now being used, it is silly to say it is "off"....just give it the easiest grade that it goes at. only fools intentionally make a route harder than it is...line of least resistance, or something like that.

or I like the dynamite idea.

also, can the FA be the only one to change a rating, up or down? that also, is stupid.

consensus should rule, not some archaic masochist rating routes.

someone give pigsteak a clue, I seem to have run out. Oh dah pigsteak, elimate routes are all the rage, its the future, were talking 5.16 here. "Line of least resistance" is so 2001. dah.

Dynamite isn't the only answer - a 'high-tech' solution might be to put a huge, sloping glob of slippery epoxy on the ledge, or, a 'low tech' solution would be to mount tall, sharp spikes on the ledge - just like the spikes used to keep pigeons off of things!

I cannot believe Allah hasn't posted in this thread...

Forget about the grade. I propose the name be changed to Knowledge or "Naw- ledge".

Climber: "Where do I go once I get to the arete? Should I step down to get a better rest?"

Backwoods Belayer: "Naw ledge! That thar is cheatin"

pigsteak wrote:
kenny has a route that he sent without using a ledge. right? but others are now using the ledge to rest, and therefore making the route easier. what is the problem..if the ledge is now being used, it is silly to say it is "off"....just give it the easiest grade that it goes at. only fools intentionally make a route harder than it is...line of least resistance, or something like that.

Agreed

Line of least resistance given that you aren't adding bolts to a runout or otherwise changing the style of the FA. I don't know,there's too many funky rules and grey areas about climbing anymore. I figure as long as Mr Day isn't laughing at me I'm doing OK. We should just have a non climber arbitrate all the squabbles on here.

Where the hell is Uncle big Green these days? we need his opinion too. kinda dissapeared from round here.

Look at the picture... you can't even remotely touch the line you are climbing / clip a bolt from the ledge... OFF ROUTE!

I vote for dynamite