RRC Archives

He flashed it, but only while Mike Doyle (I think) was standing under the route orchestrating every move. He was literally talking him through every move. I watched him doing this for Daniel Woods, but Daniel didn't fair so well. He came off several times on his flash attempt getting into the heel. Not sure if he was having a bad day, but it wasn't looking easy. And I think he said as much. I didn't hear anyone saying that anything was soft. I think when they get here fresh it's a lot different than after climbing here for awhile. I heard Dave Graham comment about Chainsaw being hard on his fingers/hands while warming up in a semi-manic state (his normal state?). I even heard someone complain about humidity yesterday (on the stellar day it was).

I have to balance this by stating that all of the climbers really seemed to be enjoying themselves though. And everyone was friendly. We climbed next to one of the Petzl guys from Calgary for awhile, and had great conversations.

I heard the Flash Comp is a one day deal. Not a true flash, but just one try on each route on that day. And then I was told that the point system is such that each route is assigned a point value then the points are divied up only between the climbers that send. Two people send a 1000 point climb, they get 500 each.

Please, anybody correct me if I'm mistaken (which happens).

I also heard someone complain about the humidity yesterday. I thought conditions were excellent yesterday but we're pretty numb to terrible humidity here so maybe to these guys it does feel humid.

Oh, and I've only seen one climber comment about a route being soft on 8a.nu. It was White Man's Shuffle. These climbers will definitely comment about a route being soft on 8a and I've only seen one.

defender wrote:He flashed it, but only while Mike Doyle (I think) was standing under the route orchestrating every move. He was literally talking him through every move.

That's called a beta flash and is a pretty standard way of flashing something near your limit. If the beta spewer is good at spewing and giving good beta it works really well. Terry K was super good at this and talked me though some of by best flashes at the red.

yeah yesterday was like way hot!!

rhunt wrote: Terry K was super good at this and talked me though some of my best flashes at the red.

What he said.

Mike was awesome in his guidance. And Sean was amazing in his own right. Pretty cool to watch the whole teem round robin on the line.

SCIN wrote:I also heard someone complain about the humidity yesterday. I thought conditions were excellent yesterday but we're pretty numb to terrible humidity here so maybe to these guys it does feel humid.

Check that. Compared to the west its always humid around here. Just think SCIN you've got homefield advantage tomorrow at the flash rally!