Ratings are for gumbies anyway

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
sparky
Posts: 270
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 11:33 pm

Post by sparky »

i don't think trad ratings are the best place to look for guidence, there are several 5.8 and 5.9 routes that don't play out as casual as there ratings suggest
" climb like hell and die" dipsi
dlewis101
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 3:31 pm

Post by dlewis101 »

Isn't the rule of thumb to increase a trad rating by 2 to decide what it's equal to in sport ratings?

Like a 5.8 Trad feels like a 5.10 sport? I know I can lead 5.12a sport (uh, sometimes at least) but can only lead 5.10 trad.
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SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

Nah.
Although onsiting trad routes can be more difficult due to the gear fiddling.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

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StephyG
Posts: 473
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 12:38 am

Post by StephyG »

Ynot, are you calling me a gumby? I'll kick yer arse if you are.
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Post by Guest »

Don't take no from the ratings!
Legion
Posts: 539
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:15 am

Post by Legion »

Muao dude, its no secret. It's written right under your name!
Power2U
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:18 pm

Post by Power2U »

Ratings don't kill people. Gravity kills people. The least you gotta know!
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
Spoonman
Posts: 167
Joined: Thu Dec 19, 2002 3:28 pm

Post by Spoonman »

Hey lemon head, most people do not think the Red's ratings are over rated. The Red has seen thousands of climbers from all over the country and world: the rating system is a consensus built over time. I climbed in Rifle (the standard of quality and rating) for three years and the systems are about the same.

The routes in the Red are easier to onsight once you acheive the fitness level, but the grades are fine. The climbing is technically easier, yet usally more pyhsical and pumpy then most areas.
Yasmeen
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

I agree with you, Spoonman. I haven't climbed in as many places as many of the people here, but I did notice stuff at the Obed to seem more technique-y and boulder-y (but with good rests if you could find them) than a lot of the stuff at the Red. I came back to the Red and was reminded of its high pump factor. I think every area has its own personality, which is what makes it so much fun to travel around and climb!
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

Hey spoonman, Are you sure that Rifle is the standard of rating for the Yosemite decimal system?
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