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How am I supposed to work with thought like these dancing in my head. Thanks everyone

Physical Graffitti at Calico Basin is a great two pitch, you can make it three if you want...slabby piece of delicious trad. Probably the most fun and yet ever so terrifying 5.easy climb I had been on. If your feet are small you can jam them in the cracks...if not, it's friction addiction at its best. Really great climb...lots of other fun stuff in Calico too ...and the boulders.

bolojm wrote: Birdland would be a classic moderate (5.7+)...I have not done it but it is "on my list"

The only multi-pitch trad route I've done. Only did the first 5 pitches. I guess you can top it out, but it is sketchy, poor quality rock (per my guide). Overall, I had a blast on it.

For sport climbing, we hit Magic Bus for 4 or 5 easy sport climbs. A lot of the lower graded sport climbs are really slabby.

easy sport walls:
Black Corridor
Panty Wall
Magic Bus (difficult approach - wear sticky-rubber approach shoes)
if you like chimney's like me "The Sport Chimney" is 5.8 and well worth the hike. guide suggests big bros for protection. i ran it out - there are a few bolts on it so it wasn't too bad.

those are all single-pitch

I'm heading to Red Rocks next weekend. Does anyone know the best decent off of Solar Slab? I heard it has bolted belays now. Do you just rap the route or is there a better decent? We plan on doing Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab to Going Nuts to Solar Slab. Any other ideas of ultra mega classics routes would be appreciated.

As far as I know, most people rappel off of solar slab. However, you have to be wary of your rope getting stuck. I've known 2 parties who had their rope get stuck somewhere above them on the slab after pulling a rope.

Somebody else mentioned ratings being soft. This is generally true for all the sport 10's-11's. I did not find it to be the case for most of the 12's (with of course the exception of sweet pain lol). The trad lines I did always felt pretty solid, but none of the multi-pitch I did was harder than 5.9.

My list of classic trad lines from another thread was:
Solar slab - 5.6
Tunnel vision - 5.7 (bring a headlamp...)
Dark shadows - 5.8 -
Frogland 5.8
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+
Epinephrine 5.9 (very long, not really all that moderate)
The black Orpheus 5.9+


For sport area's in the winter I'd recommend (get lots of sun)
Holiday wall
tsunami wall
gallery
dog wall

And my favorite sport walls were:
stonewall
sweet pain
the trophy
tsunami wall
gallery
wakeup wall
the pier

Anyone going to be out there around NYE, my girlfriend and I are heading out and wondering if anyone wants to meet up for a day of sport, or even just a larger group to throw down with on NYE. We will be there from 12/29-1/4.

Also, I think the climbing gym now rents bouldering pads. And the bouldering at calico basin is very fun, especially in the winter, it seems to warm up nicely there.

We finished climbing after the 7th pitch of Solar Slab...the last pitch I wasn't quite sure where to go. Definitely the "walkoff"...I've heard is epic. You will need 2 60m ropes for the rap off of Solar Slab (all of the raps are bolted). Watch out for stuck ropes, especially off of the first rap (I had to re-lead the pitch on an 8.8 mm rope to free our other rope). Cat in the Hat is a good climb for the grade, I've heard Olive Oil and Birdland are classics in the 5.7-5.7+ range.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada ... /105732257

It seems like you've got lots of feedback on this forum.


You could post your question to mountainproject.com as well. There are a ton of LV climbers that seem to peruse that site.