Page 2 of 12
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:08 pm
by ashtray
Andrew wrote:... but we don't have many super strong climbers.
didn't you mean to say
"...but we don't have
any super strong climbers."
Again no offense, but if you are offended then you probably need a reality check and to stop being an elitist dip-ass chuffer. Just remember we all suck, some just swallow too.
swallowing as i smile,
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:22 pm
by Andrew
Strong climbers aren't settling here because of the stone and weather, they are not settling here because it is eastern kentucky and there isn't a bunch of good stone of different varieties near by, or cool hip cities with multiple crags, beautiful cities, and loads of oontz clubs.
We have a few 5.14 climbers but one is moving, which leaves us with a few strong climbers but zero super strong climbers(5.14c/d), and none of the low 5.14 climbers here develope routes.
The word on the street is that Greg is close to 50 words but has been out west all summer and goes off to college in the flat lands soon. He did say that he wanted to do it before the rocktrip. The other word on the street is that doyle will be back in september to do 50 words.
The best part of this conversation is that we are a bunch of armchair 5.14 climbers argueing about something we might not know enough about.
Maybe greg, andrew, tyler, bill, or someone else could chime in.
Some one super strong needs to try skeletor.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:44 pm
by Spragwa
Andrew and John Schrader are also close on 50 words. The opinion of those in the know is that with the talent coming at Roctrip, it may even see an onsite.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:15 pm
by Saxman
pigsteak wrote:tell ya what wolf..it isn't too fun bolting that far over my head....call me cheap, but I don't want to spend money on hardware , not counting my time, on routes that I will never/ever even get to taste. anything out of the 5.12 range and I'd rather have one of the strong guys bolt it.....allah (cough, cough), etc...now, if sopmeone wants to buy the hardware, I might be convinced.
Pansy. Just think, you could bolt the next project for some elite climber and get your name in the mags. Look at the fame and glory you are passing by with your narrow economically self centered view of route development.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:31 pm
by rhunt
I don't think the climate argument is lame at all. I am not trying to jinks things here but what are the chances that it will rain all three days of rocktober fest weekend or be 85 and humid. What would be the chances of that kind of weather at the VRG in fall, winter or spring?..esp the wet weather....for example. Isn't it the case that Mike Dolye's work on Lucifer was slowed due to waiting on better conditions? Wouldn't he have gotten a lot more harder redpoints in if he had more climbable days on his trip? There are a few manufactured holds/routes at the Red...a couple that are worked on so that they don't seep due to the wettness of KY. But the reason there are not a lot of manufactured holds/routes at the red is the reason there are not that many 5.14's at the red...plenty of holds and plenty of good rest. Remember what the red is, endurance. The Red is incredible for what it is and that's why I love it so much.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:41 pm
by pigsteak
actually rhunt, climbers at the red have a better sense of taking care of their climbing areas....we are an evolved species of climbers.
just look around you son, and you will see the truth.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:02 pm
by rhunt
and the truth will set me free?
I am not talking about our local community. We have the greatest local climbing community in this country. I am talking about the climate and nature of the rock.
What is so cool about the Red is that it has the greatest concentration of routes that lend themselves to the most common population of climbers. I could argue that we have too many routes bolted under 5.10a but I will save that for the next dog or tick mark thread.
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:18 pm
by allah
all i have to say is after the roc trip there will be more 14c's and maybe a few 14d's and a few routes i dont think will be done. and there are a lot of super hard routes they just need to be found and drilled.
Oh yea who would want to live in KY the rest of there lives??????
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 3:54 pm
by rhunt
make it so Allah!
Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:51 pm
by the lurkist
the cave in between the inner sanctum and purgatory.
case in point.
putting up really hard route is really hard. it takes a shit load of work to equip really steep and marginally featured routes. it is a labor of love, even if you will never do the route.