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used a small dmm stopper - fit really snug, prob. better that a cam would.

I'm the FA. I placed a nut as a directional in a horizontal down low (just above the ledge a few feet off the ground), then 2 cams in the crack. Here's the first 3 pieces of gear ever placed in Muir Valley:

andrew's got my back...now THAT is scary.

I have placed a tri-cam (pink?) in a horizontal somewhere below the 'roof'. It seemed like a really good placement, but I figured it was really only to keep me from tumbling backwards head over heels to the deck. Then, I placed a bomber hex (medium sized?), oriented vertically, right in the crack between the ramp and the main wall. This was to protect the moves getting up onto the ramp.
I tried to place as much passive stuff as possible on the route so I would have the cams for anchor building in the cave.

Saved the cams for anchors?

Does that seem bassakwards, or is it Me ?

shoulder slingin' the gear and socks perhaps? this must be around 19......84?

pigsteak wrote:shoulder slingin' the gear and socks perhaps? this must be around 19......84?

Hey, it's the first route in the valley. I didn't know what would be up there. I brought everything I could find with me.

I like shoulder slings. Great for quick extension. And dammit, I like my Megas and I wear socks with them. I like my ankles.

mna, just playing with ya..my sport climbing wienie brotherhood disallows shoulder slings. they must be racked, looped, like sport draws...and socks, we'', I can't help you there. back home , the strongest kid in the gym wore socks and loose shoes and flashed 13's, so enopugh of the "tight" fitting shoe mantra.

I saw this route listed in the new Guide book as a SPORT route, so I was confused, but I think it was just an error, since the new edition won't be released for another week. Hmmmmnnnn....